The Swiss watchmaker is readying to start selling its new Louis Moinet Tempograph (the ref. LM-19.50.50 you see on the “featured” image above and five other versions) model. Besides a touch of timeless steampunk charm, the watch also features a ten-second retrograde indicator at 3 o’clock, not very useful but still a fascinating gadget. As huge as it is, the timepiece seems to be designed with serious collectors in mind, although, if you happen to be an eccentric millionaire with fancy hairdo and a garage full of European super-cars (and a couple of helicopters), you can easily use one as your daily beater.
Just like the recently unveiled Perrelet Tourbillon wristwatch, the Louis Moinet Tempograph model features an off-center design to its face with a small -in fact, even smaller- hours and minutes sub-dial in the upper half of the timekeeper’s face. Stylized to look like a miniature version of a gothic tower clock and featuring four Arabic numerals and eight hour markers machined out of a solid piece of metal, the sub-dial does a poor job of telling time, but still looks truly magnificent.
The rest of the face’s real estate is left to demonstrate the workings of the ten-seconds retrograde indicator consisting of a seconds hand with a blued-steel tip on 3 o’clock and a sophisticated cam mechanism at 9 o’clock.
As an observer will be able to see, the six-teeth cam mechanism takes exactly sixty seconds to complete a single revolution, making the seconds hand go down, instantly releasing it after ten seconds and letting it to reset back at zero and then making it go down again.
Truly fascinating, I suppose.
The feat is achieved thanks to the Swiss company’s new Louis Moinet Calibre LM05 automatic movement. Beating at 28,800 vph and crafted from 125 components, the manufacture-made caliber sports a rather unusual decoration of its oscillating weight, which is probably inspired by the famous Cotes du Jura motif.
With their prominent 47 mm case, which is also composed of whole 48 elements and probably takes a lot of skilled labor to make, finish, and assemble, the majority of these watches is destined to spend the better part of their lives as “box queens” although they still look organic enough to be worn on a special occasion or two.
The watch will be available soon and is expected to be delivered in three main versions and five variations:
•There will be an ultra-lightweight model in titanium grade 5 alloy body with low-carbon steel 316L and black PVD-coated bezel that will be sold as ref. LM-13.20.50/50 (Black dial) and ref. LM-13.20.60/50 (Silver dial);
•A bit more expensive version will combine 18 ct rose gold 5N alloy with titanium grade 5 & steel 316L that will go as ref. LM-13.40.50/50 (Black dial) and ref. LM-13.40.60/50 (Silver dial); and
•The final model, which is actually pictured on these beautiful promotional photos that you see throughout the whole article, is delivered in a very impressive mix that features two 18-carat gold alloys: deep rose gold 5N and medium rose gold 3N. Featuring a very impressive black dial with rose gold and steel gray elements, as well as sporting very classy heat-blued steel hands and screws, this version is offered as ref. LM-13.65.50/50 model.
Of course, if black is not your cup of tea, there will also be a version with silver open-worked dial that, too, features very impressive guilloche decoration.
Photos: Louis Moinet
Louis Moinet Tempograph automatic watch specification:
Price range: $60,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Louis Moinet Calibre LM05, mechanical, automatic, 28,800 vph, Swiss Made
Complications: Retrograde seconds hand
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case material: Different combos of steel, titanium and gold
Case dimensions: 47.00 mm
Case height: No data
Dial: Skeletonized. Black or silver
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Louisiana alligator leather strap, hand-sewn, width between lugs : 24 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, AR-coated