The Swiss watchmaker has recently updated its family of Regulator watches with retrograde hour display with a model in a titanium case. Judging by the promotional photos that we have just received, the refreshed Perrelet Regulator Retrograde in Titanium (refs. A1041/4 and A3014/5) will retain all the characteristic design elements of the family, but will bring in more subdued, discreet color scheme with different shades of grey accented with burgundy-colored elements of the dial.
The Perrelet Regulator Retrograde in Titanium is a unique watch.
While “retrograde” and “regulator” timepieces are present in abundance in just about any serious watch store, it is still hard to come by a watch that successfully combines the two complications into one beautiful product.
The first watch that comes to mind is the magnificent (and very expensive) Glashutte Original Masterpiece Collection Tourbillion Regulator. The ultra-expensive timepiece so impressed me when I first saw it that I even used its picture as a background for my “social” buttons banner at the right sidebar.
The second one is, of course, the Perrelet Regulator Retrograde series that previously included only four versions: two in stainless steel and two in rose gold cases. Finally, they have introduced one in a feather-light titanium case.
Just like the previous models, the Perrelet Regulator Retrograde in Titanium is powered by an exclusive Perrelet P-221 caliber, which is being manufactured in-house by Perrelet’s sister brand MHVJ (Manufacture horlogere de la Vallee de Joux).
Although the watch is shipped in a similarly shaped case, it is slightly larger with a diameter increased from 42 mm to more substantial 43.5 mm.
The watch’s dial has also been restyled from a classic to a more modern, art-deco-styled job, which is similar to that in the recently revealed Perrelet Big Central Moonphase in Titanium (ref. A5000/2) watch.
Its 12-hour display at the upper part of the face strongly reminds elevator floor indicator dials from the 1930s and the striped sub-dials bring forward associations with the Chrysler Building (don’t ask me why, they just do.)
What is the most interesting is that the decor doesn’t seem to decrease the watch’s legibility.
While there is certainly way too much stripes and numerals and hands, it is really not a problem to get the reading at a glance when you get used to the design. Both hour and minute hands are clearly visible thanks to a generous amount of white lume on them, and the Arabic numerals on both subdials are also very bright and highly legible.
To my taste, the Perrelet Regulator Retrograde in Titanium is a gemstone in Perrelet’s dazzling crown of beautiful timepieces.
Perrelet Regulator Retrograde in Titanium (refs. A1041/4 and A3014/5) watch specification
Price: €6600 (MSRP)
Movement: Perrelet P-221, automatic, Swiss Made, 35 jewels, 28,800 vph, Swiss Made
Complications: Retrograde hour hand, regulator
Power reserve: 40 hours
Case material: Titanium
Bezel material: Titanium
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 43.5 mm
Case height: No data
Dial: Black and gray
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Natural black rubber strap with titanium deployment buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, AR-coated
Case back: Sapphire