While not terribly handsome (and somewhat reminding me of a vintage Ronson lighter despite its impressively -some may even say ‘reassuringly’- high price tag) the new De Grisogono Otturatore automatic watch not only looks different (and quite organically at that if you are interested in my opinion) from thousands of other ‘complication’ timekeepers in its niche, but also offers a funny complication that, while not particularly useful, could actually make this timekeeper quite interesting to wealthy geeks who have just cashed out of their first startup and have a strange burning feeling in the vicinity of their wallets.
The special appeal of this watch comes from its two-part rotating dial that, while having only one generously sized aperture, can display whole four sub-dials: subsidiary seconds, a power reserve indicator, date, as well as a moon phase display. The idea, as you can see on the pictures below, is that the watch only shows you one sub-dial at a time and only in a sequential order.
If for example, you are tired of the small seconds hand continuously sweeping the blackened face of the respective sub-dial, you only need to press the push-piece once and the dial, which is beautifully decorated with a Clou de Paris cobbled pattern, will rotate to the moonphase display in a blink of an eye.
Well, in fact, almost 20 times faster than a blink of an eye: it only takes the sophisticated “jumping” mechanism 0.016 seconds to make the dial to instantly shift 90 degrees clockwise from one position to another.
Press the pusher a second time and the watch will display current day.
Hit it again and you will immediately see the remaining energy stored in its mainspring barrel!
The system came courtesy of the new De Grisogono DR 19-89 automatic movement that was developed exclusively for the Swiss brand. It is not really clear whether it was assembled in-house or outsourced to some other Swiss manufacture.
From the 574 components that the caliber is built of, more than 300 are designed to control the sequential display function!
Since the rotation of the disk requires a good deal of energy, the jumping module is even equipped with its own mainspring barrel so that, playing with the flashy function, you won’t compromise the main functionality of the watch.
Although the movement per se is not particularly large (it measures 31.4 x 32.7 x 9.8 millimeters,) the body of the watch sports more than heroic proportions. According to official specs, the case, which is available both in 18-carat rose and white gold, is more than 50 millimeters in width and almost 45 mm in height.
As you can gather from the press pictures, a healthy part of the blame may be credited to the huge crown and the blocky pushers that increase the width of the timekeeper by at least 10 millimeters!
It is quite thick, too, measuring almost 16 millimeters.
Well, on the other hand, de Grisogono watches have never been particularly small.
See also: de GRISOGONO Fuso Quadrato
Photos: de Grisogono
De Grisogono Otturatore Automatic watch specification
Price: $90,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber DR 19-89, made by Soprod exclusively to de Grisogono, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 28
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: Blacked
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, moonphase, power reserve
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case material: Rose gold or White gold
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Rectangular
Bezel shape: Square
Case size: 60.16 mm x 44.85 mm
Lug width: 11.00 mm
Case height: 15.86 mm
Dial: Silver (No.1 ) or black (Nos. 2 & 3,) Clou de Paris cobbled pattern
Hour markers: Gold
Hands: Dauphine, gold (matches case)
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Genuine black alligator leather strap with de Grisogono folding clasp in 18-carat rose or white gold (matching case)
Case back: Sapphire