The energetic JD Grande Seconde SW line has been here for about five or six years now. It was introduced in different variations, including the outrageous SWROUGE model that featured a combination of rose gold and black rubber. This new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde SW Cotes de Geneve (Ref. J029030245), however, attempts to take the model a step or two higher on the elegance ladder.
While the timekeeper’s physical dimensions seem to remain the same and all of its main elements still in place, the new version of the watch makes a lot stronger impression than its previous incarnations.
The effect has something to do with a rather unexpected combination of rugged-looking steel parts, those including the signature ratcheted bezel and the pair of oversized, um, thingies placed symmetrically on both sides of the case, and the anthracite-colored dial, which is now (actually, for the first time when it comes to this particular collection) decorated with a Cotes de Geneve pattern.
Flawlessly executed, the vertical stripes look a lot more in place than the same pattern employed by, for example Mido in its Multifort collection. As usual, it is the details that make all the difference. As you can see on the close up photo, the vertical strips are nicely supported by machine-brushed surfaces of the figure eight-shaped ring that encloses both sub-dials, as well as by the applied strips of metal and the aforementioned “thingies” attached to the case at 3 and 9 hours.
The sportiness of the watch is further emphasized by luminous hands (all three of them), as well as the hour markers and numerals. All these elements of the serene-looking dial are covered with enough BGW9 Superluminova compound to make the timekeeper readable even in twilight: something, which is quite rarely encountered when you deal with sporty watches that are also supposed to be dressy.
At 45 millimeters in diameter, the watch is by no means small and may look plain huge on some skinny wrists. However, its impressive width is partly compensated by its notable thinness: although powered by a twin-barrel automatic movement that sports more than 68 hours of guaranteed power reserve (called JD caliber 2663A-S, it is slightly redecorated version of the same mechanism that ticked inside previous versions of the watch), the device measures less than 12 millimeters in thickness.
According to their PR representative, the watch, which is going to be officially unveiled at Baselworld 2014 event, will retail for some $14,500 in the U.S. and around €13,000 in the European Union.
For the niche that the ref. J029030245 is supposed to secure for the Swiss-based watchmaking specialist, the price seems more than reasonable although it will regrettably put the piece out of reach of most enthusiasts.
See also: Jaquet Droz SW Chronograph
Photos: Jaquet Droz
WWR preliminary verdict
Build quality: 5/5
Value for money: 4/5
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde SW Cotes de Geneve (Ref. J029030245) watch specification
Price: $14,500 USD (MSRP) / Around €13,000
Movement: Automatic, JD 2663A-S, adjusted to five positions, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 30
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 68 hours
Movement decoration: Ruthenium-plated, polished black screws, skeletonized oscillating weight in 18-carat white gold, Geneva stripes
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case, black rubber insert
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 45.00 mm
Case height: 11.93 mm
Lug width: No data
Dial: Anthracite grey, Vertical Cotes de Geneve (Geneva stripes) pattern
Numerals: Roman and Arabic
Hour markers: Luminous
Hands: Skeletonized, luminous
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Rolled-edge hand-made anthracite gray alligator leather strap with tone on tone stitching
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire