The Japanese watchmaker has fairly recently presented a line of affordable dress watches. Coming in different color variations and featuring both stainless steel and gold-toned bodies, the new Seiko Recraft collection comes in an unexpectedly finely crafted (albeit, a bit too oversized) case and is powered by an in-house Caliber 7S26 self-winding movement: the same inexpensive, but bullet-proof job that also animated their well-known Seiko SKX781 Orange Monster diving watch.
Surprisingly affordable, the 2014 Seiko Recraft series of automatic timekeepers may become a perfect “entry-level” watch for a person who never previously owned a mechanically-powered timekeeper. Equipped with an extremely robust and reliable Caliber 7S26, the device will easily withstand the level of abuse and neglect that would make your normal ETA 2824 movement go tits up even before its first scheduled maintenance.
However, compared to the aforementioned ETA model, as well as other mid-range Swiss made mechanisms, the 7S26 is definitely not as refined and, well, impressive. Despite the mechanism’s rather rustic appearance, there are a couple of technical features (or, rather, a lack thereof, such as no manual winding, which can be a problem if you don’t plan to wear the timekeeper on a daily basis) that may put you off this device.
The absence of hacking seconds, too, may become a source of irritation to those who have already got used to good European watches.
Featuring styling from the 1970s, the new Seiko Recraft jumps on the same bandwagon as models from Longines with its Heritage 1935 pilot’s watch, through Shinola, and all the way to premium-priced giants like Omega who often spice-up their timeless design with NOS versions of calibers that were discontinued before yours truly was even born. What’s different in Seiko’s approach is that their new offering comes at literally just a fraction -like, 1/10th!- of the price of a normal vintage-styled Longines.
For example, sellers on Amazon.com currently offer this chunky beauty at less than $170 US dollars with free shipping, can you believe it?
Still, unlike its numerous sources of inspiration, this new watch is a bit too massive to be considered a real tribute. Measuring more than 43 mm in width (setting crown not included), the watch takes a lot of real estate on your wrist. The chunky profile of the case doesn’t do a very good job in mitigating the problem, and neither do the massive integrated lugs that make the timepiece look even larger. So, beware.
What I really like here is the dial.
An affordable watch that tries to look like a modern luxury timekeeper usually fails quite miserably: there are too many corners that need to be cut to make a watch as inexpensive as it is and all of them are usually quite visible even to an inexperienced eye. The classic watches that were produced during 1960s-1970s, however, were quite simple in their exterior design, and, using today’s machinery, even a brand like Fossil or Invicta can easily make a very convincing-looking homage to a vintage watch.
The same goes to Seiko. With that sunburst dial, crude applied hour-markers and a bit rustic hands, the Recraft SNKM97 absolutely nails the feel of a watch from the seventies.
All you need to make this beauty truly shine, is a vintage Datsun 240Z retrofitted with an American V8 engine.
See also: Longines Heritage 1973 Chronograph
Photos: Seiko, eBay, uhrforum.de
WWR preliminary verdict
Build quality: 4/5
Value for money: 4.5/5
Seiko Recraft Automatic (Ref. SNKM97) watch specification
Price: $190 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber 7S26, Made in Japan
Number of jewels: 21
Movement frequency: 21,600 vph
Power reserve: 38 hours
Movement decoration: Skeletonized oscillating weight
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day of week
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Cushion
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 43.50 mm x 43.50 mm
Case height: 11.40 mm
Lug width: 23.00 mm
Hour markers: Applied, luminous
Hands: Open-worked, luminous
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Case back: Transparent