The new limited edition Harry Winston Premier Excenter Perpetual Calendar Platinum not only praises the American brand’s success as a watchmaker, but also comes powered by a wonderful self-winding movement created by one of the leading Swiss-based watch manufacturers. Offering an off-centered dial layout with whole two retrograde displays and a nicely done moonphase indicator, the new device gives you an idea of how a 1930s American timekeeper would look like if they have had highly-precise CNC machinery and CAD software back then.
While most jewelry brands usually regard their watches as mere vehicles designed for selling lots of exquisitely decorated gold and platinum adorned with all sorts of precious stones, HW has almost from the beginning understood that they need a halo model, a Grand Complication timepiece that would drive sales of their highly expensive watches. It came as a highly successful Premier Excenter Perpetual Calendar model: a watch that soon became a design icon.
Celebrating the 20th anniversary of the timepiece, the American Harry Winston Diamond Corporation, which is (comparatively) recently into Swiss watch manufacturing, has presented a very special edition model. Limited to only 20 units, the new gadget will probably extremely rare leave premises of extremely well-guarded deposit boxes, but it will surely become one of the most sought-after collector’s items in about twenty years or even less.
Made of solid platinum, the Harry Winston Premier Excenter Perpetual Calendar Platinum automatic watch comes in a medium-sized 41mm case.
The precious body nests the same GP 3306 QP (aka GP 3330 that we have seen in the gorgeous Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 Large Date Moonphase model) self-winding movement manufactured in-house by the Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux and upgraded with an add-on Agenhor 111.HW module.
The add-on module literally adds a couple of retrograde mechanisms operating the date and month complications as well as a leap-year indicator that includes a rotating disk with 1-2-3-4 numerals (the “4” is for the leap year) with the current year indicated by a small white triangle printed on the dial.
Thanks to the module’s relative compactness (34 mm in diameter, it is only 2.40 millimeters thick,) the automatic caliber also stays very slim measuring only 5.60 mm in height.
Besides the perpetual calendar, date and month dials, the watch also features a moonphase indicator and a yellow-painted second time zone hand, which is set by a pusher located at 2 o’clock.
Taking into account how much time it usually takes a frequent traveller to re-adjust a perpetual calendar watch each time he finds himself in a new GMT zone, the easily-operated GMT indicator may be very useful.
The engine-turned anthracite or silvered dial of the watch with its moire or watered-silk effect provide for a contrast background, so, although a little bit busy with data, the watch is still quite legible and doesn’t require too much effort to read the date and time.
In fact, I would even nominate this limited edition watch for the title of one of the most legible perpetual calendars in the world.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Harry Winston
Harry Winston Premier Excenter Perpetual Calendar Platinum watch specification:
Price range: $68,800 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber GP 3306 QP by Girard-Perregaux, Swiss Made
Functions & Complications: Date, day, second time zone, perpetual calendar, moon phase, retrograde, leap year
Power reserve: No data
Case material: Platinum
Case diameter: 41.00 mm
Case height: No data
Dial: Anthracite or silvered
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Hand-stitched black alligator, white gold folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, anti-reflective