Cimier Retrograde Automatic with power reserve (ref. 5104-SS021) Swiss

Last Match, during the Baselworld 2009 international trade show in Basel, Switzerland, the local watch maker has presented its new Cimier Retrograde Automatic (ref. 5104-SS021) The new collection features a complex-looking dial with retrograde annual calendar and power reserve indicators complementing the usual “three-hander” layout of the base ETA 2892 that animates the wristwatch.

As usual, there was a torrential rain of new models at this year’s Baselworld 2009 trade fair and I am quite sure that this new Cimier Retrograde automatic watch with power reserve indicator that was presented among the watches from IWC and Breguet didn’t make the brand’s PR representatives to feel embarrassed in any way while presenting the watch on their exposition stand.

Made by a rather obscure Swiss brand Cimier that was established in 1924, but is still to become a legend of the watchmaking world, the watch features an elegant, classic design reminding of times when cars were made mostly of wood and steel and were put into motion by huge 6.75-liter engines that offered less torque and horsepower than contemporary 1.6-liter jobs, but still delivered a level of satisfaction that modern motorists can only dream of.

Or, putting it in a more straight fashion, I really like this unit.

Cimier Retrograde automatic watch with power reserve

Although its dial is too busy with day, date and power reserve indicators, and it looks like the watch is completely machine-made, there is something about it that just makes you wanting to get one.

Its hour and minute hands are not very contrasting, even on a version with a charcoal grey rhodium-plated dial, and there will surely be some issues with legibility in certain lighting conditions, but the timepiece nevertheless looks like it was born (or, at least, conceived) 70 years ago, before the Great Depression ruined so many lives and businesses.

Cimier Retrograde (detail, dial)

On the technical side the watch is also not particularly brilliant.

The Cimier Retrograde Automatic is powered by Soprod 9094 self-winding movement, which is based on the omnipresent ETA 2892 ebauche with a piggy-back retrograde date and power reserve module put on its front.

Although making the movement harder to service, this solution gives you what many customers are looking for: a set of flashy complications offered at an affordable price.

Cimier Retrograde Annual Calendar and Power Reserve (transparent caseback)

The movement is protected by a beautifully shaped stainless steel case with domed sapphire crystal and a transparent case back. Measuring 51 millimeters from lug to lug (yet, it is just 42 millimeters wide,) the watch looks sort of massive, but in a good way: there is nothing in it from those deliberately oversized models that somehow confuse what they prefer to call “sportiness” with tasteless arrogance. No, even despite its size, this model looks surprisingly elegant and stylish.

The watch is available in two versions -with silvered or rhodium plated dial- and is water resistant to healthy 50 meters although some may find the WR rating not adequate enough for something that looks like a “casual luxury” timekeeper.

At the time of writing of this review, the watch was offered at a fairly affordable price of just below $2900 USD, yet I am not sure how well it will keep its value when you decide to sell it: the brand is definitely not as well-advertised as, say, IWC, but, on the other hand, the watches are not as overpriced either. Well, time will tell.

See also: IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month

WWR Verdict

Originality 4/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Overall Legibility: 4/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4/5
Value for Money: 3.5/5

Overall Rating: 4/5

Photos: Cimier

Cimier Retrograde Automatic with Power Reserve and Annual Calendar specification

Price: $3000 USD
Movement: Soprod 9094 (base ETA 2892,) automatic, Swiss Made
Jewels: 30
Cadence of balance: 28,800 vph
Movement finish: Perlage, vertical Geneva Stripes, customized oscillating weight with Cimier logo
Functions & Complications: Hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde date, day of week, power reserve
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case material: Stainless steel
Case dimensions: 51.00 mm x 42.00 mm
Dial: Silver or rhodium-plated
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Crocodile with folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective, double-domed
Back: Sapphire, engraved

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