The new Richard Mille RM 028 automatic diving watch leaves a strange impression. It is too expensive for a tool watch and it is too big for a lifestyle timekeeper. However, it is not only a beautifully designed object of art, but is also a perfect vehicle to deliver a message that you have too much money.
Based on the last year’s RM 025 tourbillon chronograph diving watch, the new Richard Mille RM 028 Diver is significantly smaller, cheaper (or, rather, not so outrageously expensive) and it seems to be far more practical than the ‘senior’ model, too. Well, ‘practical’ is perhaps not the best adjective here. Perhaps, with its exaggerated proportions and deliciously crude finish something like ‘not as crazy’ will be a better choice of words.
Just like the RM 025, the RM 028 comes without a usual “solid” dial having instead its Arabic numerals printed on a transparent glass that covers the blackened base plate of the movement.
Lacking the chronograph and tourbillon complications, the watch sports much more legible interface and its huge (and also raising some Freudian connotations) hour and minute hands are covered in a thick layer of Superluminova providing for perfect readability even in the darkest waters.
The new RM 028 is animated by the recently introduced Caliber RMAS7 automatic movement. Beating at 28,800 vph and built on 32 jewels, the skeletonized caliber offers an unusual big date display function and features a NIVAROX temperature-compensating balance spring.
Since the watch has an official water resistance rating of whole 300 meters, it is designed to be easily operated even while wearing diving gear. As you can see on the pictures, the setting crown, for example, is so huge that you will have no problem using it even in rubber gloves.
Its 47 mm round case is made of titanium and rubber and is strong enough to ensure water resistance of up to 300 meters.
As you can see on the picture above, a great deal of real estate here is occupied by an extra-wide unidirectional rotating bezel with only so much space reserved for the open-worked dial. While the width of the bezel allows for large, easily readable Arabic numerals of the dive timer, it also makes the watch look even more massive.
Although I understand that that was exactly the idea behind the overall design, it seems a bit over the top. The impression is further empathized by the huge setting crown that one could easily use as a spare tire for his Hummer or, perhaps, even for the F-150 Raptor.
Of course, like the last year’s Favre-Leuba Bathy V.2 mechanical depth meter diving watch, this kind of timepiece is hard to visualize together with a tuxedo, not only because of its extreme girth, but also for all this sand-blasted and machine-brushed metal combined with black rubber.
However, it will certainly look fine on a wetsuit or together with something huge and brutal like the Marauder armored vehicle if the estimated price of $70,000 doesn’t scare you away from this titanium beast.
Photos: Richard Mille
Richard Mille RM 028 Diver watch specification
Price range: $70,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber RMAS7, skeletonized, in-house, 32 jewels, 28,800 vph, Swiss Made
Functions & Complications: Hours, minutes, seconds, big date
Power reserve: 55 hours
Case material: Titanium, rubber, transparent caseback
Case size: 47.00 mm
Case height: 14.60 mm
Dial: Skeletonized, transparent
Water resistance: 300 meters
Strap: Black rubber on massive pin buckle in titanium
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective