De Bethune first blipped on the radar only seven years ago in 2002. The brand has already acquired enough R&D potential not only to make their mechanisms solely in-house but also to make them sophisticated and high-tech to achieve the level of accuracy that most watchmakers can only dream of.
This new Caliber DB2105si hand-wound movement that animates the DB25 Moon Phase that is briefly reviewed here, for example, features a non-magnetic balance wheel made of silicium (aka Silicon, a chemical element, which is widely used not only in metallurgy but also in the microelectronics industry as a key component for creating semiconductors that work inside your mobile phone, desktop computer, you name it.)
The choice of the mineral not only makes the caliber less susceptible to strong magnetic fields but also reduces the part’s overall mass while increasing the mechanism’s efficiency.
De Bethune initially introduced its silicon balance wheel with platinum weights and bimetallic compensation for temperature variations almost four years ago at the Baselworld 2006 trade show.
The Swiss manufacture hopes that someday the new technology will allow for the creation of automatic calibers as precise as today’s quartz movements.
Back to the DB25 Moon Phase, though.
This classic-looking 44.6 mm watch is powered by the Caliber DB2105si hand-wound in-house movement featuring a self-adjusting double spring barrel and a silicon angular balance with a flat terminal curve.
Decorated by hand, the movement is good enough to provide the mechanism with 6 days (144 hours) of power reserve.
The movement is packed into a 44.6 mm drum case, which is available either in rose or gray gold and features a silvered gold dial with hand applied solar guilloche pattern.
The moon phase indicator is displayed at 12 o’clock. It features De Bethune’s signature spherical moon and a heat-blued “sky” with nine applied gold stars. The moon, which consists of two hemispheres –one in blued steel and one in platinum– is rotating on its axis, always showing you the actual phase of the moon.
The moon phase indication mechanism is so accurate that you won’t have to correct it in your lifetime unless you plan to live another 122 years. While not something out of the ordinary, it is still nice to know that De Bethune decided not to cut corners offering you something more “traditional,” yet less accurate as some other luxury brands are often guilty of.
De Bethune is expected to show the DB25 Moon Phase in all its polished glory next spring at the upcoming Baselworld 2010 event in Switzerland.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: De Bethune
De Bethune DB25 Moon Phase specification
Price range: $50,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Caliber DB2105si, in-house, non-magnetic silicon balance wheel, Swiss Made
Cadence of balance: 28,800 vph
Complications: Moon phase, power reserve
Power reserve: 144 hours (6 days)
Case: Rose gold or Gray gold
Size: 44.60 mm
Case height: 11.10 mm
Dial: Silvered gold
Hands: Flame-blued steel, hand-polished
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Hand-crafted authentic black leather with pin buckle in rose or gray gold
Crystal: Sapphire, AR-coated on both sides