Combining a 30-second tourbillon, equation of time, sunrise / sunset indicator and lots of other technically challenging complications, the new Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time Tourbillon Titanio (PAM365) is the Italian brand’s opus magnum. Presented just now at SIHH 2010 event, the new wristwatch is, perhaps, the most interesting among numerous “grand complication” models that you can actually wear on your own wrist if the gadget’s huge size doesn’t scare you away.
Forever being known for their relatively simple timekeepers that rarely boasted anything more than a normal chronograph, the Italian brand put impressive effort (and, perhaps, mind-numbing amount of cash) into reinventing its. In fact, Panerai is just a couple of steps away from creating a real Grand Complication model that would be a sum of all of the Italian brand’s recent achievements in elite watchmaking.
If all these years you lived under the proverbial rock, I feel obliged to inform you that the Italian brand has recently made a titanic push towards becoming a real Watch Manufacture that makes its own high-grade calibers.
As you can see on the photos, besides the usual hour, minutes, small seconds and date, the watch has a pair of other indicators on its huge black dial.
At 6 o’clock, there is an equation of time indicator that measures difference between the solar and official local time. At 3 o’clock, just over the small date window, is placed a rudimentary month indicator, which is so basic it actually requires some effort to figure the current month.
A pair of more indicators is located on the inner part of the bezel. They display today’s sunset and sunrise time that are calculated depending on current date and the latitude. The latitude value is set once and for all while the prospective owner orders the watch.
Of course, there is a great deal to look at through the transparent case back of the watch.
Besides providing a good view at the subtly decorated P.2005/G hand-wound caliber (the P.2005 base movement was introduced almost four years ago, for that matters,) there is also a power reserve indicator, a 30-second tourbillon and even a map of the night sky as seen in your home town.
A real technical marvel, that one.
Perhaps, the only thing that disappoints here is the price. Yes, I understand that the in-house movement is extremely complex and difficult to make, but something tells me that AMG’s state of the art engines are not much easier to make and assemble, but you can get a whole fully loaded coupe from Mercedes-Benz reputable maker of sports cars for the price of one of these PAM 365 models. Oh, I think I forgot to mention: the price of this watches is $220,000. Yep.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4.5/5
Value for Money: 3.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Officine Panerai
Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time Tourbillon Titanio L’Astronomo PAM365 watch specification
Price range: $220,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Panerai P.2005/G Calibre, hand-wound, 375 parts, 36.6 mm in diameter, 11.04 mm thick, three mainspring barrels, in-house, Swiss Made
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Complications: Date, month, equation of time, tourbillon, power reserve, sunrise and sunset time
Power reserve: 96 hours (4 days)
Case material: Titanium (may also be ordered in gold)
Bezel material: Titanium
Case shape: Cushion
Transparent case back: Yes, sapphire crystal caseback
Case size: 50.00 mm
Case height: No data
Hands: Steel, luminous
Hour markers: Arabic, luminous
Strap: Brown leather strap with contrast stitching on titanium buckle, tapered, 26/22 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, corundum, 2.00 mm thick, antireflective coating
Water resistance: 100 meters