Previously sold only in plebeian rose gold, the 2009 Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 47292/000P-9510) is now available in high-grade 950 platinum. Designed specifically for those who find rose or yellow gold versions too arrogant and want something less conspicuous, the updated version features an elegant and subdued grey-and-white color scheme and comes powered by a great chronograph movement with an exclusive add-on module.
And you know what? With the new metal added to the collection, the ultra-luxury model has finally got the chance to demonstrate the best angles of its elegantly shaped, slightly oversized body and its almost flawlessly designed dial.
Although the latter features a tri-compax layout with a small second hand at 9 o’clock, 30-minute chronograph totalizer at 3 o’clock and a one more sub-dial at 6 o’clock displaying date and moon phase information, this beautiful face isn’t even a tiny bit overcrowded or unbalanced (okay, we will forgive them the small leap year indicator between 1 and 2 o’clock.)
The dial looks especially refined with the dark-grey opaline face, although the silvered one also looks nice. As usual, the only thing that may dissatisfy you is the lack of Superluminova on the indicators. Yes, this is a dress watch and many competing models from other brands, too, don’t care much about nighttime legibility, yet it still would be great to be able to read time in dark places. Besides that, the dial looks absolutely gorgeous and, well, expensive.
Its manual-wind 1141QP caliber is based on the Lemania 2320 movement with an added tray calendar.
Since the Swatch group has ceased supplying of the movement to competitors and Vacheron Constantin, a brand that is owned by a competing conglomerate Richemont SA, has a license to produce the Lemania 2320 at its own premises, there is a good chance that the movement is actually made by the Manufacture, not just bought and then decorated. I also make this assumption comparing photos of the original movement with the one ticking inside this Perpetual Calendar Chronograph watch: there is a number of small differences between the two with some parts either reshaped or made from scratch on VC’s own equipment to (a) make the mechanism run better or (b) make it look more distinctive from millions of other watches powered by the base movement. Well, I am not sure.
As far as I understood, Vacheron Constantin is not planning to limit the timekeeper’s production, yet it is clear that the total number of timepieces ever to be manufactured will be naturally limited thanks for the timekeeper’s impressively high MSRP. Only time will tell how “collectible” the timekeeper will become during the next couple of decades.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 3/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 47292/000P-9510) specification
Price range: $145,000 USD (MSRP)
Movement: VC 1141QP caliber, hand-wound, 21 jewels, 18,000 vph, 7.40 mm high, 27.0 mm in diameter, Swiss Made
Complications: Chronograph, date, perpetual calendar, moonphase, leap year
Power reserve: 48 hours
Case and Bezel: Platinum
Transparent back: Yes, sapphire
Size: 43.00 mm
Case height: 12.70 mm
Dial: Silvered or dark-grey opaline
Hands: White gold, polished
Strap: Black hand-stitched, saddle-finish square-shape scales alligator leather with 18-karat white gold buckle polished half Maltese Cross
Crystal: Sapphire, AR-coated
Water resistance: 30 meters