The Zurich-based brand that surfaced a couple of years ago, has offered its new Maurice de Mauriac Moon Chronograph watch. Although powered by a version of the omnipresent *yawn* ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement, the watch may be offered in just about any size or dial decoration of your liking.
Stylistically, the model shown on the picture is very close to the 2010 model year IWC Portuguese watch. Namely, the IWC Portuguese Automatic Chronograph in Rose Gold (Ref. IW371482,) although, I must admit, the real thing looks much more refined and elaborated.
Being built around the well-known ETA 7751 automatic caliber (which is actually the same good old ETA 7750 with an added moon-phase indicator and a full calendar display inside a 30-minute chronograph totalizer at 6 and 12 o’clock respectively,) the watch features a dial design, which is very similar to that of the Portuguese (with certain differences due to different functionalities of both models.)
For example, the Maurice de Mauriac Moon Chronograph Watch features a rather crude-looking extra scale on the outer part of its dial for the standard 31-day calendar. But, I shall repeat, stylistically these models are almost identical twins.
That was the bad news. The good news is that Maurice de Mauriac offers the watch in a number of versions, including a pair of models with Roman numerals on their dials and amputated 30-minute counters at 12 o’clock. Or you can have the counter back and also add a small seconds display at 9 o’clock (this is a normal functionality for the base movement that offers a standard tri-compax chronograph layout. M de M’s designers simply removed the small seconds display for the sake of symmetry.)
Although some bloggers praise Maurice de Mauriac’s ingenuity (I hope, there is no financial interest in that,) I must say that the modification of the movement per se is nothing new. For example, Dubey & Schaldenbrand offered the same bi-compass dial layout for their Gran’ Chrono Astro 18K model and the new Grand Dome DT, that are also powered by the ETA 7751 movement.
Frankly, I do not really understand the very idea of a built to order watch. Or, rather, I do not understand the idea of building a “bespoke” watch combining mass-produced dials and hands and pushpieces and packing all this stuff in mass produced bodies of three different sizes and calling it a custom built watch. With the same success you can call “custom built” a VW Golf that offers literally thousands of different combinations of engines, gear boxes, types of fuels, rims, interior appointments, number of doors, stereo systems and so on, and so forth.
Of course, judging by the prices offered by some online-shops, the watches seem to be quite affordable, selling at a price well below €3000 for the stainless steel versions. But… Hell! You can save a €1500 more and get yourself a real Portuguese chronograph, or a Portofino with a moon-phase indicator!
Photos: Maurice de Mauriac
Maurice de Mauriac Moon Chronograph watch specification:
Price range: Varies
Movement: Caliber ETA Valjoux 7751, automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph, 31 mm diameter, 5.05 mm height, Swiss Made
Complications: Chronograph, date, moonphase
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case material: Varies
Bezel material: Varies
Case shape: Round
Case size: 39 / 42 / 45 mm
Case height: No data
Dial: Black or White
Numerals: Arabic or Roman
Water resistance: 50 meters
Case back: Sapphire