What is a St. Valentine’s watch without a heart-shaped ruby, right? The Swiss watch manufacturer brings you one with its new Roger Dubuis King Square Hearts Tourbillon ladies watch.
Presented in a rectangular 36 mm wide case crafted of 18-carat white gold and paved with uncountable diamonds, this is clearly an oversized watch, although, thanks to its shape and perceived lightness of its dial, the timepiece would probably look nice on any average-sized wrist. Its length is partially compensated by ultra-short lugs that house a fine red satin strap with a really comfortable deployant clasp.
The mildly oversized winding/setting crown will make the process of operating the timekeeper a lot more comfortable even if you happen to have relatively long nails.
The new watch also offers an extensively skeletonized hand-wound movement. Built, as usual for this brand, in-house by its skillful watchmakers, the RD88SQ movement features quite an impressive level of skeletonization with its mainplate actually turned into a feather-light lacework with its hair-thin bridges holding in place all the gears, pinions and whatnot including, of course, the wonderfully shaped tourbillon escapement mechanism.
Although such extensive open-working approach has become a new trend in the watch-making industry, this particular work still looks almost overwhelming even for a person who knows a thing or two about watches and how they are manufactured. The application of the technique may be arguable when it used in men’s watches, but when it comes to the timekeepers designed for the opposite gender (damn that political correctness!) I am all for it.
While the movement looks quite fragile with all the metal machined out of it, it is in fact quite robust, although, to achieve this, Roger Dubuis had to make the mechanism relatively thick: according to official specs, it measures approximately 4.5 millimeters from top to bottom.
Comprising 162 parts and being built on 19 jewels, it brilliantly combines apparent simplicity with technical ingenuity. To give you an extra prove of how fine and well-built this mechanism is, the RD88SQ bears the famous Geneva Seal on its rear side.
Of course, the watch lacks the dial in its normal meaning: there is only a heart-shaped ruby between 10 and 11 o’clock and a beautifully crafted tourbillon carriage placed between 7 and 8 o’clock.
However, with all the air left among the bridges and thanks to its relatively wide mirror-polished white gold hands, the dial is fairly easy to read, so telling time will never be a problem (although legibility would probably be the last thing that would come to your mind when you will see this beauty in person).
Price and Availability
The Swiss brand plans to limit the watch’s production to only 28 pieces. I assume that it will cost a fortune although the official pricing is yet to be revealed*.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 3/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Roger Dubuis
* UPDATE ON PRICE: The watch will retail at impressive CHF 160,000 that roughly translates to $161,000 USD and doesn’t included the VAT tax.
Roger Dubuis King Square Hearts Tourbillon manual-wind ladies watch (Ref. KS36-88SQ-22-23/S9000/F) specification
Price: CHF 160,350 (Retail, VAT not included)
Movement: Manual (hand-wound,) Caliber RD88SQ, skeletonized, Hallmark of Geneva seal, Swiss Made
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Power reserve: 50 hours
Case material: White gold
Bezel material: White gold
Case shape: Rectangular
Bezel shape: Rectangular
Case size: 36.00 mm
Lug width: No data
Case height: No data
Hands: Gold, polished
Water resistance: 5 meters
Strap: Red satin on white gold buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire