Right after the playful Angular Momentum Bronze Timepiece Bz No. 1 that was revealed last month, the independent Swiss brand introduces a more sober Angular Momentum Classic Bronze hand-wound watch featuring a more scratch-resistant case and an absolutely beautiful milky white Grand Feu enamel dial.
If you haven’t heard about the finish before, Grand Feu enameling is a special technique that, while quite demanding on an artisan and usually delivering a greater number of rejects than more common enameling processes, nevertheless produces a very impressive finish if done correctly. To create a dial, watchmakers usually take a metal billet, put some ceramic powder on it and finally put it into an oven with temperatures varying from 800 to 900 °C depending on composition of the compound and the color that the enamellist wants to get. The main problem here is that it takes just one tiny mistake (like a couple of extra seconds in the oven combined with a few extra degrees of temperature) to ruin the dial and go back to square one while losing time and cash in the process.
This is the main reason why there are not so many brands who can offer you a watch with a Grand Feu dial. Luckily, Angular Momentum is one of those precious few.
Angular Momentum has just released a press release regarding its second watch that is going to be encased in a mid-sized 38 mm body made of copper and aluminum bronze alloy.
Widely used in industrial applications, the alloy is known for its extremely high resistance to corrosion and high hardness. The aluminum bronze, which is used for the case of this particular model, is rated at 380 HV (Vickers.)
Compare this to the 190 — 220 HV of the 316L surgical grade stainless steel, which is used in most watches. The usual 18-carat gold is rated from 85 to 125 Vickers, which makes it even more prone to scratches than steel.
Of course, bronze has its drawbacks, too. It is prone to oxidation, for example, but this problem is easily solved with regular polishing the timepiece using special pastes.
Featuring mirror-polished surfaces with down-turned lugs and an elegant bezel, the watch looks absolutely gorgeous.
The only detail that slightly spoils the picture is the huge 8 mm fluted winding crown, which is made of some white metal (steel, perhaps?) and is adorned with a black onyx cabochon. But that’s mostly a matter of personal taste, I suppose.
The dial is made using a highly complicated Grand Feu enameling process. The technique not only lets making extremely long-living dials, but also allows for a high-contrast printing of numerals.
The gold plume-shaped hands are not covered with any amount of luminescent substance, but that’s absolutely normal for the classic-styled watches.
Photos: Angular Momentum
Angular Momentum Classic Bronze & Grand Feu Enamel hand-wound watch specification
Price: No data
Movement: Manual, Swiss Made
Movement decoration: Decorated by hand
Functions: Hours, minutes
Power reserve: No data
Case material: Aluminum Bronze
Bezel material: Aluminum Bronze
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 38.00 mm
Lug width: No data
Case height: No data
Dial: White Grand Feu enamel
Hands: Gold, plume-shaped
Water resistance: No data
Case back: Sapphire