The new super-limited edition Gustafsson & Sjögren GoS Stockholm watch is yet another fruit of the long-standing partnership between the Sweden bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren.
As far as I understand, the watch was conceived and produced in cooperation with GoS local retailer Fredmans Ur, which is based in Stockholm, Sweden.
The timekeeper features a mid-sized stainless steel case with the bezel, the winding crown as well as all three hands made from hand-forged Damascus steel. The parts were painstakingly hand-polished in order to show the natural beauty of the metal.
The watch is limited to only five pieces with four of them featuring white mother-of-pearl dial (pictured) and the fifth coming in blue Lapis Lazuli.
Although the choice of materials for the dial may puzzle you a little, both mother-of-pearl and Lapis Lazuli are in fact very often used to decorate handles of knives, swords and other sharp-edged weapons.
According to the company, the watch is animated by a historic Alpina 592R caliber from the 1950s. Coming in its original finishing, the hand-wound movement organically blends into the brutal appearance of this new GoS Stockholm.
Being as old as it is, the vintage mechanism beats at a really slow frequency of just 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour. This has two effects: one on the timekeepers accuracy and the other on its appearance.
Regarding the first one, there is a common misconception that a slower-beating caliber is usually less accurate. This is not so. If the slower movement is properly adjusted and fine-tuned, it may actually be more accurate than a faster one of similar quality simply because the inevitable errors and imbalances of the mechanism are not multiplied as fast as, say, in a caliber that has its balance wheel beating at more standard by today’s, um, standards frequency of 28,800 vph. As for the second one, slower frequency will result in the seconds hand’s jerkier movement, but that doesn’t seem to be a real problem since there are hundreds of ultra-expensive watches powered by vintage calibers (like, say, Breguet) that, too, display the same “jerky” seconds hands and their lucky owners couldn’t care less. Why would you, right? Consider this a “feature.”
Another interesting touch here is that the timepieces will be delivered in unique GoS presentation boxes hand-crafted by a woodcraft artisan Sture Nyberg from thin birch wood.
With its deliberately rustic appearance, the wooden box may not be as fascinating as boxes made by Japanese craftsmen that usually invest hundreds of painstaking hours into assembling and decorating them with precious inlays and covering them with expensive lacquers, but it seems to perfectly match the overall deliberately rugged wristwatch that was designed with modern Vikings in mind.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 3.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Gustafsson & Sjögren GoS Stockholm hand-wound watch specification
Price: No data
Movement: Manual (hand-wound,) vintage Caliber Alpina 592R, 26.60 mm in diameter, 4.00 mm in height, Swiss Made
Cadence of balance: 18,000 vph
Movement decoration: No data
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 46 hours
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Damascus steel
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 42.00 mm
Lug width: 22.00 mm
Case height: 10.00 mm
Dial: Mother of pearl or Blue Lapis Lazuli
Hands: Damascus steel, black
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Black leather
Case back: Sapphire