The new Grand Seiko 130th Anniversary collection looks like it’s having the legendary Patek Philippe Calatrava in its fine crosshairs. With its understated elegance, the Commemorative Edition makes a subtle, but very firm stress on the “Grand” part of the Grand Seiko brand.
Grand Seiko 130th Anniversary: An Introduction
Being a part of the 130th Anniversary Commemorative Collection, the new family is almost an exact reproduction of the original 1960 Grand Seiko timepiece.
Back then, the Japanese brand was only setting its foothold in the luxury timekeepers niche. The company was putting some serious cash into refining the line and trying to find its own voice.
The three-hander from more than 50 years ago, made it clear that Grand Seiko was there for the long haul.
The elegant case and clean, easy-to-read dial together with a nice mechanism indicated that people at Seiko knew what they were doing. They didn’t just try making an affordable “homage” to a European model. They’ve created a product that looked as Japanese as one could possibly get.
Visually, the difference between the original and this new “sort-of-re-issue” is minimal. The 130th Anniversary model lacks the “Chronometer” inscription under the logo. The small eight-pointed star at 6 o’clock is also gone.
The New Caliber 9S64
What’s new here is the in-house Caliber 9S64 that also deserves a fair share of attention.
First of all, it’s simply pleasant to look at. Both the quarter-panel and the balance cock feature a carefully executed horizontal pattern similar to Geneva stripes. The only visible gear also sports similar finish but in a radial pattern. Also, the (probably) laser-etched GS / Grand Seiko logo looks extremely cool.
Secondly, being made in Japan, it’s not just pretty: the guaranteed accuracy is also very impressive. Fine-tuned and adjusted in 6 positions, the movement has a mean daily rate between -3 and +5 seconds per day.
Yes, this is still years behind an ordinary quartz caliber. Yet, this mechanical movement may easily qualify for a chronometer certificate from the Swiss COSC institute.
Although the hand-wound mechanism is thin measuring less than 5 millimeters top to bottom, the 130th Anniversary is still a bit of a thicker side. Its thickness of 11 millimeters is further exaggerated by its relatively small diameter of just over 38 millimeters, a de facto standard for a classic dress watch. Still, it feels comfortable when worn with formal attire.
The Compact Case
The timekeeper’s 35.8-millimeter case is available in three versions: stainless steel (ref. SBGW033,) yellow gold (ref. SBGW040), and platinum (ref. SBGW039.)
While the stainless steel variation is more or less affordable at its €5000 recommended retail price, the model in platinum may leave a huge hole in your budget with its heavy price tag of €23,500.
Considering the choice of materials, it is not overpriced. I’d say that it is more or less on par with similarly styled timekeepers made by its German and Swiss-based rivals including the aforementioned PP Calatrava.
Of course, seriously comparing the two models is kind of pointless: both models are so good that this is one of those rare moments when you should choose with your heart, not your brain.
The steel version is limited to 1300 pieces and the versions in gold and platinum will be issued in 130 individually numbered pieces each.
WWR’s Final Rating
Originality 4/5
Versatility: 4/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Ergonomics: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Value for Money: 5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko 130th Anniversary specification
Price: €5000 (steel, ref. SBGW033) €15,400 (yellow gold, SBGW040) €23,500 (platinum, SBGW039)
Movement: Hand-wound, Caliber 9S64, 28.4 x 4.9 mm (diameter x height,) 24 jewels, 28,800 vph, in-house, Made in Japan
Finish: Stripes, circular-graining on gears
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 72 hours
Case: Stainless steel / Yellow gold / Platinum
Shape: Round
Size: 38.50 mm
Height: 11.00 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, anti-reflective
Back: Sapphire
Dial: Silvered
Hands: Stainless steel / Yellow gold, 18-karat / Platinum
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Crocodile leather strap with stainless steel, platinum, or a yellow-gold buckle