Although the automatic Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Retrograde Edition Limitee (Ref. MP6519-PG101-430) is not as outrageously extravagant as the gorgeous Masterpiece Roue Carree Seconde that was also introduced in Basel last week, it still looks original and, well, desirable.
The reason for the timekeeper’s attractiveness is the winning combination of rose gold 46 mm case and dial elements with the deep blue face. Together, these ingredients make the Double Retrograde Edition Limitee look especially noble, putting it in the same league with the creme de la creme of the Swiss watchmaking community.
The watch is powered with the brand new ML 191 automatic movement that, as far as I understand, is their recent Caliber ML 151 movement that was equipped with an automatic winding system and, as Maurice Lacroix never seems to be tired to emphasize, is made entirely in-house and doesn’t use any third-party movement as a base for their own design.
Well, if that’s indeed the fact, kudos to their engineers that have managed to turn a brand that solely relied on ETA and Sellita-sourced blank calibers in making their watches to what is virtually a full-fledged Manufacture capable of making beautiful calibers of unique design and -at least in some cases- gorgeous finish (just look how unique is the oscillating weight on this one!)
Built on 74 jewels and slowly beating at 18,000 vph, the movement displays not only standard hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds, but also features three retrograde indicators: date (6 o’clock,) second time zone (12 o’clock,) and power reserve (at 3 o’clock.)
If you take a look at the pictures above and below, you may notice that the small seconds sub-dial is decorated in such a way as to look like another retrograde display. Some may find this deceptive, but to me, the trick looks neat. At least, it visually balances the whole display.
Too bad that the whole series is limited to only 50 pieces although selling more of these pricey gadgets (they will go to retail system with MSRP of impressive $24,000) would probably be difficult given that the brand is still in its infancy and there are not so many enthusiasts ready to risk their money for a product with questionable resale value. But if you are ready to pull the trigger, I am certain that you are for a treat of your life.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4/5
Photos: Maurice Lacroix
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Retrograde Edition Limitee specification
Price: $24,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber ML 191, 18,000 vph, 74 jewels, Swiss Made
Movement decoration: Rhodium-plated, vertically brushed, snailed
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, power reserve
Power reserve: 52 hours
Case: 18-karat rose gold
Size: 46.00 mm
Dial: Solid 925 silver, deep blue, sunray satin finish
Hands: Rose gold; Hands at 6 and 12 o’clock are rhodium-plated
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Large-scaled black crocodile leather strap with black calfskin lining; 18-carat rose gold folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective, convex
Back: Sapphire, screw-down, individually numbered