I have just received an email from guys at AM regarding their new hand-wound Angular Momentum Smooth Diver. Since this Swiss-based “a band apart” never fails to produce one piece extraordinaire after another, I am eager to share with you the great news.
What I like about independent brands is that they never seize to impress the watch-loving public with new, more and more interesting models.
While the well-established Behemoths, like Breguet or Audemars Piguet try not to steep too far away from the beaten path (not in order to prevent an accidental stamping on the poor butterfly, but simply not to lose their faithful flock and the market share,) the independents tend to cast prudence to the winds, so to speak, in order to produce a model that would bring them to the top.
Well, yes, there are brands that make their living ripping-off designs and ideas from their fellow watchmakers. In fact, I am completely sure that these scavengers amount to at least 80 percent of the total headcount of the industry.
However, the other 20 percent do make the real stuff.
Take Angular Momentum as an example.
You can’t find their timepieces in major retail chains or in fancy boutiques. However, if you see one of their masterpieces on a person’s wrist, you will easily understand that this is a timepiece made by Angular Momentum, even if you see this particular model for the very first time.
That’s called ‘style’.
Looking completely new, this Angular Momentum Smooth Diver nevertheless offers all the necessary elements of the design language that we usually associate AM with.
Its five-part case, which is made of their favorite 1.4435NCu Staybrite steel alloy, is equipped with the signature barrel-shaped horns and fittings.
And the inevitable oversized 8.00 mm notched winding crown is, as always, adorned with a cabochon. As is the other crown, which is here to fix in place the free-rotating diving-style bezel.
Like the dial and the hour markers on the bezel, both cabochons are covered with the solid Email Lumineuse enamel.
Completely unremarkable in broad daylight, these elements look absolutely stunning in darkness when the enamel starts to glow like a deep-water fish or a flying saucer.
Like almost all recently presented AM watches, the new Angular Momentum Smooth Diver is powered by a new old stock (NOS) Fontainemelon FHF 96 hand-wound movement.
Since the Swiss brand doesn’t do movement decoration in-house, the movement is hidden behind a sold case back, which is made of some yellow metal. Possibly, brass or a bronze alloy that they recently started playing with (see my brief review of their recently presented Bronze Timepiece Bz No. 1 that, by a coincidence, also features the same Email Lumineuse enamel on its beautiful dial.)
Again, this is an interesting watch. Too bad it is so expensive: AM plans to ask CHF 5200 for the mechanical gadget.
Photos: Angular Momentum
Angular Momentum Smooth Diver specification
Price: CHF 5200 (MSRP)
Movement: Hand-wound, Fontainemelon Caliber FHF 96, 18,000 vph, NOS, Swiss Made
Movement decoration: Standard finish
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, rotating bezel
Power reserve: 48 hours
Case material: 1.4435Ncu Staybrite steel
Size: 41.80 mm
Case height: 16.00 mm
Dial: Solid Email Lumineuse luminous enamel
Water resistance: 200 meters
Strap: Natural black rubber