The highly respected Swiss watch manufacture has recently updated its Manero family of dressy, yet complicated timekeepers with a new Carl F. Bucherer Manero Big Date Power series. Available both in modest stainless steel and precious 18-carat rose gold, both on leather straps and on metal bracelets, the new Carl F. Bucherer Manero Big Date Power looks like an ultimate watch for someone who is looking for a “complication” timekeeper that would look good with a formal dress.
Finding such a piece is always a difficult task since a “canonical” dressy watch is supposed to be as modest as possible. Some orthodox observers even claim that any time measuring device that sports more than two -hour and minute- hands is just too complicated to be considered a dress watch.
If the presence of a large date display and a power reserve sub-dial doesn’t stop you from getting the new Manero and if rose gold is your metal of choice, then you should take a look at the model with reference number 00.10905.03.13.01.
As you can see, it is offered in a winning combination of compact rose gold case, natural brown leather strap and a silver dial that serves as a good background for the rose gold hands.
The collection also includes the same model on a rose gold multilink bracelet, but that one looks too blingy to my taste: with all due respect, you will certainly need to have at least one gold prosthetic tooth to perfectly match that one.
Although the watch is offered in a relatively compact and slender 40 millimeter round case, there is enough place on the dial to comfortably place a big date aperture at 12 o’clock as well as a fairly large power reserve indicator that extends from 5 hours to almost 8 o’clock.
The baton-shaped rose gold hour markers are also just long enough to perfectly match the proportions of the face and are just thick enough to be clearly seen.
In fact, the watch clearly obeys the general guidelines set by the legendary Patek Philippe Calatrava family of dress watches: an undisputed industry standard of understated elegance and refinement.
According to the Swiss watchmaker, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Big Date Power is animated by a new CFB 1964 automatic caliber: an in-house model that features rather average accuracy and power reserve, but, unlike your normal ETA-based mechanism, is designed to look great with its blued screws, rhodium-plating all over the place, and, of course, their signature “turbine”-style oscillating weight.
Photos: Carl F. Bucherer
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Big Date Power (Ref. 00.10905.03.13.01) automatic wrist watch specification
Movement: Automatic, Bucherer caliber CFB 1964, 28,800 vph, in-house, Swiss Made
Movement decoration: Decorated by hand
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, big date, power reserve
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case material: Rose gold
Bezel material: Rose gold
Crown material: Rose gold
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 40.00 mm
Lug width: No data
Case height: 9.55 mm
Hour markers: Rose gold, baton-shaped
Hands: Rose gold, dauphine
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Brown Alligator leather strap with 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire