Do you remember the brilliant Petite Heure Minute Art Deco (Ref. J005013570) that was released earlier this year? Well, the famous Manufacture has recently introduced a number of new members of the family, including the elegant Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Ivory Enamel (Ref. J005003200.) Compared to the aforementioned model that sports a 39 mm case, the new generation is released in a more compact body measuring only 35 millimeters. A nice choice for a lady’s watch, that is.
Crafted from 18-carat red gold, the watch has an elegant aura about it. Although, to my taste, it won’t look good with an evening dress (for such an occasion you should probably get yourself the psychedelic Cloverleaf decorated with hundreds of yellow, blue, pink and even orange sapphires,) it will certainly be a perfect companion for more formal attire.
Its main point of attraction is not its body, but the beautiful ivory-colored dial with an off-centered hour and minutes display.
While looking deceptively simple on the promo photo, the dial of this ref. J005003200 is decorated with Ivory Grand Feu enamel: a beautiful coating that involves a complicated process with a lot of highly skilled hand labor and high temperatures.
Difficult to automate, the process often results in a significant share of defective parts that come out of the oven, so the dials are not only pleasant to look at but are also expensive.
Although the body is smaller than usual, the new Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Ivory Enamel ladies watch is still powered by the same Jaquet Droz 2653 automatic movement. Equipped with two spring-barrels, the movement stores enough energy to keep going for at least 68 hours (if fully winded) of total immobility in a chest of drawers.
Although the mechanism is often referred to as an “in-house” caliber, it is, in fact, based on a movement made by Blancpain-owned Frederic Piguet: a formerly independent manufacturer of mechanical calibers. I couldn’t find information as to the exact name of the base caliber, but, based on visual clues, I have the impression that this is the Caliber FP 1150 that Jaquet Droz often uses as a platform for their own movements.
Photos: Jaquet Droz
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Ivory Enamel (Ref. J005003200) specification
Price: $15,800 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Jaquet Droz 2653 (base Frederic Piguet), double-barrel, modified and decorated in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 28
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: 22-karat white gold oscillating weight
Functions: Hours, minutes
Power reserve: 68 hours
Case: 18-karat red gold
Size: 35.00 mm
Case height: 10.40 mm
Dial: Ivory, Grand Feu enamel
Hour markers: Black
Hands: Red gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Rolled-edge hand-made brown alligator leather strap with 18-carat red gold ardillon buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective