Celebrating the 125th anniversary of the famous Poinçon de Genève (the official seal of the City and Canton of Geneva, Switzerland, that only a few watchmakers can actually use,) the Swiss brand has recently presented its new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph (ref. RDDBEX0361) automatic wrist watch.
As you may already know, the Geneva Seal can be stamped on a watch movement if the mechanism meets certain criteria required by law, such as the caliber’s place of manufacture (it must be made in the city of Geneva) and its finish.
However, starting next year, the requirements will be changed. In fact, they will become even stricter than before: the organization that stands behind the Seal will not only inspect the movement, but will also test the watch itself in order to certify that it indeed possess the claimed functions, such as guaranteed minimum power reserve, water resistance, etc.
In two words, the new requirements will dramatically increase market value of the Seal.
The timing for the amendments to the Geneva Seal Law seem almost perfect, since a customer who shops for a luxury watch must finally be protected from numerous pseudo-brands of different origin that offer nothing, but a French-sounding name and a faked “history” behind their products.
Roger Dubuis, as I have already noted, celebrates the 125th Anniversary of the Geneva Seal by offering a beautifully designed and superbly crafted watch, which is equipped with a high-end RD580 automatic movement.
Besides the gorgeous flying tourbillon complication (at 9 o’clock) and a 45-minute monopusher chronograph (at 3 hours,) the watch also features an easily readable, fuel gauge-style power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, as well as a round aperture at 6 hours that provides a good view at the micro-rotor that powers the watch.
As you can see on the photo, the platinum oscillating weight is not only decorated with an inevitable “125 ANS” (“125 Years”) inscription, but also bears the legendary Poinçon de Genève logo both on its front and rear sides.
So far, this is the only movement that has not one, but whole two Seals on its winding rotor.
The movement is packed inside a rather large 18-carat rose gold body. Whole 45 millimeters in diameter, the case of the watch seems to be identical in its shape and decoration to that of the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Self-Winding with Micro-Rotor and Flying Tourbillon (Ref. EX45-520-20-00/0ER01/B) model that was presented in January 2011 during SIHH 2011 industry event.
That is basically all that we know about the new watch. We will update this article, if any new information will surface.
Photos: Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph (ref. RDDBEX0361) automatic watch specification
Price: $275,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Caliber RD580, automatic, micro-rotor, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: No data
Movement frequency: 21,600 vph
Movement decoration: Geneva stripes
Functions: Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon, 45-minute chronograph, power reserve
Power reserve: 60 hours
Case material: 18-carat rose gold
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round, notched
Case size: 45.00 mm
Case height: No data
Lug width: No data
Dial: Bi-compax layout
Hour markers: White gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Brown leather strap
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire