The new Chopard L.U.C XPS Poincon de Geneve 125th Anniversary Edition (ref. 161932-5001) automatic wrist watch is yet another timepiece from the renowned Swiss watch manufacturer that celebrates the 125th anniversary of the brand’s receiving the prestigious “Geneva Seal” certification. Although technically the tradition was interrupted many years ago and current Chopard shares nothing but the name with the watchmaking specialist that was honored with the right to stamp the legendary “Poincon de Geneve” seal on their mechanisms, it is still a pleasure to note that present iteration of the company still proudly makes gorgeous movements that are not only nicely decorated, but are also meticulously designed and painstakingly assembled to the highest standards of Swiss engineering.
The original Chopard L.U.C XPS timekeeper was introduced almost six years ago in 2006. Powered by their own L.U.C 96.12-L (L.U.C 12.96) COSC-certified self-winding caliber, the watch featured a very simple design with a pair of dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands in the center and a very reserved small seconds sub-dial placed at 6 o’clock.
Compared to the original, the Poinçon de Genève version of the watch sports only one easily noticeable difference: a small aperture at 3 o’clock that gives you a look at the wheel of a simple calendar complication.
Well, there is also a new color scheme that offers you a charming combination of rose gold for the body and chocolate for the dial: something you can never go wrong with.
Equipped with a 22-carat rose gold micro-rotor, the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L (L.U.C 1.96) sports a more or less standard diameter of 27.40 millimeters, but is just 3.30 millimeters thick, allowing the Swiss watchmakers to create a very slender, pleasantly proportioned case.
Just 39.50 millimeters wide, the case is only slightly thicker than 7 millimeters: not exactly ultra-thin, but still quite impressive.
Together with a chocolate brown satin-brushed dial with a sunburst pattern this makes it a perfect dress watch: a timekeeper that tells you time, quietly makes a statement and is discreet enough to be almost invisible when circumstances require.
The recommended price of CHF 19,300 that was set by the watchmaking specialist looks quite impressive, but is nothing out of the ordinary if you factor in the white gold case, in-house caliber and, of course, hundreds of hours of skilled labor needed to make it worth the Seal the piece is named after.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Poincon de Geneve 125th Anniversary Edition (ref. 161932-5001) automatic watch specification
Price: CHF 19,300 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L (L.U.C 1.96), in-house, crafted and decorated by hand, COSC-certified chronometer, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 29
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: Bridges adorned with Cotes de Geneve (Geneva Stripes) pattern
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Power reserve: 65 hours
Case material: 18-carat white gold
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 39.50 mm
Case height: 7.13 mm
Lug width: 19 mm
Dial: Brown sunburst satin-brushed
Numerals: No data
Hour markers: Applied, rose gold-toned
Hands: Dauphine, rose gold-toned
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: 19/16 mm hand-sewn matt brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle in 18-carat rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire, antireflective