The Italian watchmaker has upgraded its “Vintage” family of military-styled timekeepers with a new Anonimo Militare Vintage automatic wrist watch that seems to be inspired by historic timepieces that were worn by the Italian troops during the times of World War II.
Of course, now, when Panerai seems to dominate the niche of “historic” Italian military watches, any timekeeper with a cushion-shaped case will almost certainly be regarded as a shameless rip-off.
However, the Firenze-based brand doesn’t seem to mind and offers a whole range of watches in precisely such bodies. However, they successfully differentiate from their fearsome competitor that is backed by almost omnipotent (when it comes advertising budgets) Richemont S.A. thanks to its unusually positioned winding / setting crown.
Neatly placed at 6 hours between the horns, the crown seems to be well protected against unexpected shocks, but, on the other hand, requires the watch to be taken off the wrist when there is a need to correct time or date indication.
Speaking of which, I must admit that the new Anonimo Militare Vintage offers highly legible, easy to read dial layout with all its elements covered by a natural-colored Superluminova. Of course, the dial lacks the usual cool presence of Panerai watches, but is still very nice to look at.
As you may have already noted, the luminous hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock are accompanied by four extra Arabic numerals that make it easier to read time in the military 24-hour format.
Well, perhaps, the date aperture at 6 hours is a little too narrow, but I can live with this.
The watch is powered by a not particularly wide-spread Sellita SW 260-1 automatic ebauche: basically the same well-known Sellita SW200-1 that has its central seconds hand replaced with a small seconds indicator, which is in this particular case placed not at 6 hours, but at 9 o’clock (as you can tell by the position of the setting crown, the movement is rotated clockwise against the usual position) and is counterbalanced by “Militare Vintage” inscription at 3 hours. I can’t say that I am too fond of the way the inscription looks with its bold frame, but, well, I have seen worse.
Built on 31 jewels (I am not sure how many of those rubies are really functional and how many are there just to increase the jewel count of the movement,) the mechanism works at a standard frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and offers an acceptable power reserve of minimum 38 hours.
My only complaint here is that the timekeeper bears a stunningly high price tag of more than $4000. For a watch that sports a mass-produced movement and is not especially easy to re-sell without losing too much money, it seems to be clearly overpriced.
Anonimo Militare Vintage automatic watch specification
Price: $4050 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, caliber Sellita SW260-1, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 31
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: Branded oscillating weight, decorated with Geneva Stripes motif
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 38 hours
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Cushion
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 43.50 mm
Case height: N/A
Lug width: N/A
Dial: Black or Egshell White
Hour markers: Luminous
Hands: Black, luminous (Swiss Superluminova)
Water resistance: 120 meters
Strap: Washable Opera Kodiak leather strap on a personalized Anonimo stainless steel buckle. Up to 24 hours of immersion in salty water
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Transparent