The Japanese-owned American brand Bulova will soon release its new Bulova Accutron Conqueror (ref. 63B152) limited edition automatic wristwatch. Touted as being based on the vintage 1927 Lone Eagle model, the gadget’s main purpose is said “to commemorate Colonel Charles A. Lindbergh’s monumental solo non-stop flight across the Atlantic Ocean in 1927M.” Well, it seems that the assertion is a little far-fetched given that it is powered by a modern caliber and is basically just another “homage” to a long-forgotten watch. Still, the new piece could very well be a wonderful Christmas present for those in love with the art-deco culture of the Roaring Twenties: a post-WWI decade when Europe witnessed one of the fastest economic growth periods in its history.
Although the watch is said to be based on the 1927 Lone Eagle model, it is in fact a faithful reproduction of a second iteration of the historic piece that was manufactured from 1928 till 1930.
Compared to the original 1927 model (that, according to MyBulova.com was previously sold as Bulova Conqueror, hence the name of the re-issue,) the body seems to be more elongated, gone are the sharp angles that are replaced with flowing curves. Even the engravings are more subdued.
The functionality of the new also seems to be different. While the original Lone Eagle displayed only hours and minutes, as well as small seconds at six o’clock, the 2012 version comes equipped with a chronograph movement that also sports a GMT complication.
Even though the chronograph totalizers are very inconspicuous (you don’t even notice them when taking a first long look at the watch,) the central GMT chronograph hand, regrettably, screams loudly spitting saliva right into your face and making the original simple as sin dial a lot more complicated and, well, not so attractive.
And, frankly, the standard setting crown and chronograph push-pieces that, too, scream “XXI century” (or, rather, “an attempt at cost-cutting”) look here like a wending machine in a church: cost-efficient and probably profitable, but somehow inappropriate.
According to the American brand, the watch is powered by a Swiss made Dubois-Depraz 31340 automatic movement, which is officially certified by the local COSC authority as a chronometer.
To make the re-issue even more special, the American brand plans to make only 200 pieces of the watch and then destroy the molds “forever.” I guess they should also erase the CAD files, too. Just to be sure.
It is promised the watch will be sold on all markets at a recommended street price of $4900: a bit expensive, but I am sure they won’t have a problem selling all of them.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4.5/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Bulova / MyBulova.com / Segnatempo.it
Bulova Accutron Conqueror (ref. 63B152) automatic watch specification
Price: $4900 (MSRP)
Movement: Caliber Dubois-Depraz 31340, COSC-certified chronometer, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 53
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: No data
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date, second time zone (GMT)
Power reserve: 40 hours
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Tonneau
Bezel shape: Tonneau
Case size: 39.00 mm
Case height: 14.00 mm
Lug width: No data
Numerals: Arabic, luminous
Hour markers: Black
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Brown leather strap with steel buckle
Case back: Engraved