Omega’s dressy line of Constellation timekeepers has recently been updated with a super-compact model that now packs their high-grade Omega Co-Axial Calibre 8521 self-winding movement into a diminutive 27 mm rose gold case. Although some may find this particular Constellation ref. 123.55.27.20.57.001 with its loads of gold, gold-colored mother-of-pearl, and a set of huge diamonds as blingy as a wedding gift from Tutankhamun himself, it sure looks great in its own daring way.
Offering a system of highly efficient bi-directional winding, as well as a free sprung-balance system that features an ultra-light-weight (and also antimagnetic) silicon balance spring, the movement has been here for a while (we, for example, saw this tiny engine in the last year’s Ladymatic DeVille line.)
First introduced almost four years ago during Baselworld 2008 event, the original Caliber 8520 that this mechanism is based on was a sort of statement that Omega is here to be among the precious few who lead the way, not among the many who just refinish old (and boring) calibers from ETA.
Although the last year’s Ladymatic was offered in a comparatively large rose gold body whole 34 millimeters in diameter, it was clear by the look of its dial that the movement was designed for smaller cases: its date window was closer to the center of the dial than the 11 diamonds that served as hour markers.
This new piece is a living proof that the device was originally designed to power sub-30 mm timekeepers… like this Omega Constellation ref. 123.55.27.20.57.001.
The refreshed line is available in more than three dozens of variations, but this particular version with reference number 123.55.27.20.57.001 looks the most appealing to me.
Coming in a compact, tonneau-shaped body only 27 millimeters in diameter, the watch features an elegant mix of a mirror polished bezel, which is expertly paved with 32 full-cut diamonds that have a total weight of 0.50 carat, and brushed surfaces of the case and elegant bracelet, too, crafted from red gold.
But what makes this device the most attractive is, of course, the dial that features a piece of unique gold-tinted mother-of-pearl. While not looking too intrusive, the dial offers an adequate level of contrast for the polished hands that feature thin patches of white Superluminova on them.
As usual, the dial is set with 11 single-cut diamonds that tip the scales at 0.12 carats and (finally) belong to the same circle as the date window.
See also: Mondaine Classic Big Date Ladies (A669.30008.11SBO) Hands-On Review
Photos: Omega Watches
Omega Constellation Ladies (Ref. 123.55.27.20.57.001) specification
Price: Around $25,000
Movement: Automatic, Omega co-axial Caliber 8521, COSC-certified chronometer, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 28
Movement frequency: 25,200 vph
Movement decoration: Oscillating weight and the balance bridge in red gold; Geneva waves in arabesque
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 50 hours
Case: Red gold, brushed, 18-karat
Bezel: Red gold, polished, paved with 32 full-cut diamonds with a total weight of 0.50 carat
Shape: Tonneau
Bezel shape: Round
Size: 27 mm
Dial: Gold-tinted mother-of-pearl
Hour markers: 11 single-cut diamonds
Hands: Luminous, red gold
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Bracelet in brushed red gold
Crystal: Sapphire, domed, anti-reflective coating on both sides
Back: Sapphire
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Bought my first mechanical watch in 1986 and it took me ten more years to realize that I have a problem: at some point in time watches became my passion. Well, it could be worse.