For this year, Corum, a Swiss watchmaker that was founded back in 1955, finally brings us their splendid Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon (ref. 384.101.47/F149 AN01) ladies watch, which is not just nicely decorated with diamonds, but also features their exclusive automatic movement that drives a constantly moving Indonesian mother-of-pearl dial. It could have been smaller, though.
Powered by their “patented” Corum caliber CO 384 self-winding movement, the new watch is equipped with a very unusual dial.
While the overwhelming majority of watches feature stationary dials that simply have a given number of apertures in them to display numbers or symbols printed or engraved on rotating wheels or disks, this particular model has a stationary calendar wheel with the dial itself rotating around its central axis and making a full turn in 31 days.
More than that, the moonphase indicator that features a jumping moon disc, which is nicely decorated with 6 diamond stars and a mother-of-pearl moon, also rotates together with the dial, always staying on the opposite of the round date aperture (Since the Swiss watchmaker used an expertly applied sunray pattern with the rays stemming from the center of the date window, the window probably symbolizes Sun in this particular case).
The aforementioned Cal. CO384 mechanism is not as spectacular to watch though. Visible through the rear sapphire crystal, the tiny automatic engine features a rather generic oscillating weight with the CORUM inscription and something that looks like tremblage engraving, but is probably just a very rough sand-blasting (don’t quote me on that, it’s just what I see.)
Luckily, instead of the usual Geneva Stripes, the visible bridges and plates feature polished surfaces with nice vertical “slits.” For a reason that is not obvious to yours truly, the “slits” on different parts of the caliber are not properly aligned: there are visible steps between them. While I understand that there was an idea behind the way the lines lack continuity, I personally find this approach a bit irritating (but that’s probably my own personal problem since I have exactly 15 coins lying on my desk right now, perfectly lined up in three straight rows almost in perfect parallel to each other.)
The watch, which is going to be officially presented next month during the Baselworld 2012, is coming in Corum’s signature dodecagonal stainless steel body and also features a diamonds-set bezel and a sapphire crystal of the same unusual shape.
As always for the Admiral’s Sup family, the watch has a set of 12 nautical pennants engraved on its bezel flange, each pennant replacing a corresponding numeral from 1 to 12.
Well, to my taste, the case, which measures 38 millimeters in width, is the only more or less significant shortcoming of this watch: for many women the watch will possibly be too large to wear it with a straight face. However, if you (or your beloved one) are into the oversized watches, this sporty, yet glamorous timekeeper with its unique movement may be a perfect choice.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 3.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 3/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4/5
See also: Omega Constellation Ladies Watch 27 mm (ref. 188.8.131.52.57.001): Now With Co-Axial Caliber 8521
Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon (ref. 384.101.47/F149 AN01) ladies watch specification
Price: $15,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Corum caliber CO384, patented, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 30
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: Branded oscillating weight, plates and bridges decorated with vertical lines
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, moonphase, rotating dial
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Stainless steel, set with 72 diamonds (0.58 carats)
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Dodecagonal (12-sided)
Bezel shape: Dodecagonal
Case size: 38.00 mm
Case height: 12.25 mm
Lug width: No data
Dial: Black or White mother-of-pearl
Numerals: Nautical pennants, monochromatic
Hour markers: None
Hands: Luminous, polished
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Black or white satin strap with triple folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, dodecagonal, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire