Believe it or not, but the Swiss watchmaker Bell & Ross has recently re-issued its gorgeous Jump Hours model that was first revealed nine years ago in Basel, Switzerland. Available both in platinum and in more affordable (and also definitely more elegant) rose gold, the new Bell & Ross WW1 Jump Hours Power Reserve watch features a pretty rare layout with a single minute hand in the center of the dial and a jumping hour aperture at 12 o’clock. Playing in tune with the timekeeper’s signature pocket watch-style rose gold case, the whole layout looks very organic and, well, harmonic.
Judging by the looks of it, the only thing that changed about this watch is the styling. However, while the original watch was presented in a pretty much standard, slightly dull-looking body that could hardly inspire you with anything but the price, and featured not particularly unique dial, the new version looks very elegant and classy. You literally feel hundreds of hours of highly skilled labor invested into this beautiful piece.
The effect comes courtesy of its clean, minimalistic opaline pearl dial and wire-style lugs: a signature element of their current WW1 series of vintage-styled watches.
Thankfully, unlike their recent “pilots” delivered within this model range, the new watch is not as huge. Measuring in just 42 millimeters in diameter, it is quite massive for a contemporary dress watch, but that can be excused since the WW1 Jump Hours was clearly inspired by vintage timekeepers that were animated by huge pocket-watch movements.
Speaking of movements, this WW1 Jump Hours Power Reserve seems to be powered by the same automatic caliber that was created around ten years ago by Mr. Vincent Calabrese: a Swiss-based, self-taught watchmaking prodigy of Italian origin.
Based on the well-known ETA 2892 ebauche, the movement not only gives you a jumping hour indicator at 12 o’clock and a regulator-style minute hand, but also nicely executed power reserve indicator: changing hours indication in single jumps requires a lot of energy and it is good to always know the status of your hairspring.
Presented in an 18-carat rose gold case, the watch will probably be quite expensive, so Bell & Ross decided to limit its production to only 50 numbered pieces. The watch in platinum will be even rarer: the Swiss watchmaker plans to assemble only 25 gadgets.
Photos: Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross WW1 Jump Hours Power Reserve Automatic watch specification
Price: $26,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, ETA 2892 caliber modified by Vincent Calabrese, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: No data
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: Blued steel screws, circular-grained mainplate, oscillating weight and bridges decorated with Cotes de Geneve motif
Functions: Jumping hours, minutes, power reserve
Power reserve: N/A
Case material: Rose gold, 18-carat
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 42.00 mm
Case height: No data
Lug width: No data
Dial: Opaline pearl
Hour markers: Stick-shaped, rose gold
Hands: Blued steel
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Brown alligator leather strap with 18-carat rose gold buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire