Believe it or not, but Bell & Ross has recently re-issued its gorgeous Jump Hours model that was first revealed at the Baselworld 2003 in Switzerland. Now available both in platinum and in more affordable (and also definitely more elegant) rose gold, the new Bell & Ross WW1 Jump Hours Power Reserve features a pretty rare layout with a single minute hand in the center of the dial and a jumping hour aperture at 12 o’clock. Playing in tune with the signature pocket watch-style rose gold case, the whole layout looks organic and, well, harmonic.
Judging by the looks of it, the only thing that changed about this watch is the styling. However, while the original was presented in a generic, slightly dull-looking body that could hardly inspire you with anything but the price, and featured not particularly unique dial, the new version is elegant and classy. You literally feel hundreds of hours of highly skilled labor invested into this beautiful piece.
The effect comes courtesy of its clean, minimalistic opaline pearl dial and wire-style lugs: a signature element of their current WW1 series.
Thankfully, unlike their recent “pilots” delivered within this model range, the new addition is not as huge. Measuring in just 42 millimeters in diameter, it is massive for a contemporary dress watch, but that can be excused since the WW1 Jump Hours was inspired by vintage timekeepers that were animated by huge pocket-watch movements.
Speaking of movements, this WW1 Jump Hours Power Reserve seems to be powered by the same automatic caliber that was created around ten years ago by Mr. Vincent Calabrese: a Swiss-based, self-taught watchmaking prodigy of Italian origin.
Based on the ETA 2892, the movement not only gives you a jumping hour indicator at 12 o’clock and a regulator-style minute hand, but also nicely executed power reserve indicator: changing hours indication in single jumps requires a lot of energy and it is good to always know the status of your hairspring.
Presented in an 18-karat rose gold case, the watch will probably be expensive, so Bell & Ross decided to limit its production to only 50 numbered pieces. The version in platinum will be even rarer: the Swiss watchmaker plans to assemble only 25 gadgets.
Photos: Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross WW1 Jump Hours Power Reserve specification
Price: $26,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, ETA 2892 caliber modified by Vincent Calabrese, Swiss Made
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: Blued steel screws, circular-grained main plate, oscillating weight and bridges decorated with Cotes de Geneve motif
Functions: Jumping hours, minutes, power reserve
Case: Rose gold, 18-karat
Size: 42.00 mm
Dial: Opaline pearl
Hour markers: Stick-shaped, rose gold
Hands: Blued steel
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Brown alligator leather strap with 18-karat rose gold buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective