The new De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk automatic wrist watch features the same toroid-style chapter ring with Roman and Arabic numerals marking hours and minutes respectively that we have already seen on their last year’s De Bethune DB25T Tourbillon Regulator model, but features a very unusual date indicator that looks like it was inspired by a bottle opener.
With its case entirely crafted from mirror-polished titanium, the new timekeeper from the relatively young (it has just celebrates its tenth year in business) but quite successful Swiss watchmaking house sports a futuristic, yet easily recognizable design.
As their De Bethune DB28 hand-wound watch that was, too, offered in titanium, this new timekeeper comes in a slightly oversized body 43 millimeters in diameter that sports the usual setting crown at 12 o’clock, as well as their patented “floating” lugs.
Also crafted from the same grade 5 titanium, the lugs are designed to make the watch feel like an organic part of your wrist: their curvature changes with every move of your wrist, which makes the watch feel very comfortable on a wrist “like it was here forever.”
The dial of the timepiece looks very ergonomic and easy to read. While the heat-blued steel hour hand looks somewhat disproportionate to the minute hand, the design is completely logical, since the former glides right above the hours ring and the other points at the minutes track.
The date indicator, on the other hand, looks very graphical. Like a geometric figure inscribed in a circle, which is formed by the inner edge of the calendar wheel, it is not only easy to read, but also makes a strong visual impression. Too bad that it looks like a miniature bottle opener or, perhaps, a spatula.
According to the corporate press release, the watch comes equipped with their new Caliber DB S233 automatic movement.
Featuring a self-regulating twin-barrel design, as well as a silicon/white gold balance wheel with flat terminal curve that sports “an ideal” inertia/mass ratio, the movement stores enough energy to keep the watch running for as long as 144 hours: full six days, which makes it an ideal choice for a “weekend watch” that will only see the light of day a couple days per week. Although the movement’s mainplate is hand-decorated and snailed and its steel parts are hand-chamfered and polished, the movement is hidden from our eyes with a mirror-polished titanium cover with only a small porthole cut over the balance wheel and covered with a synthetic sapphire crystal.
As for pricing, it is surprisingly low for a brand that mainly deals in ultra-luxury timekeepers that often cost like a Lamborghini. As the company has just confirmed, this one will cost CHF 37,000 when it finally hits select boutiques in Switzerland. The price will be different in the rest of the European Union, as well as in the United States, but not too much.
Photos: De Bethune
De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Automatic watch specification
Price: CHF 37,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber DB S233, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 34
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 144 hours (6 days)
Movement decoration: Mainplate hand-decorated and snailed, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts
Functions: Hours, minutes, date
Case material: Grade 5 titanium
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 43.00 mm
Case height: 12.00 mm
Lug width: No data
Numerals: Arabic (minutes) / Roman (hours)
Hour markers: None
Hands: Steel, heat-blued
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Extra-supple black alligator leather strap with titanium pin buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective on both sides
Case back: Solid titanium, mirror-polished, cutout over the balance wheel