Breguet’s egg-shaped Reine de Naples collection has been here for precisely a decade. Still, one of the oldest Swiss watchmaking houses doesn’t plan to retire the model range any time soon. On the contrary, since the watches enjoy their fair share of success among women all over the civilized world, they keep introducing more and more interesting pieces to the pool. The new Breguet Reine de Naples Charleston Automatic (Ref. 8928BB/51/J60 DD0D), for example, while coming in an easily recognizable body, differs from the rest of the pack with its absolutely outrageous Charleston-type bracelet that can be had either in understated white or in more traditional yellow gold (ref. 8928BA/51/J60 DD0D.)
According to official specs, the new watch comes powered with the same Caliber 586 automatic movement that we have already seen in a number of other ladies watches from the renowned brand.
Manufactured in-house (as you may already know, the brand was re-established as a ‘manufacture’ after the Swatch Group has acquired ebauche-maker Lemania and reserved its facilities for Breguet,) this simple caliber may look a bit archaic with its low-frequency balance wheel that beets at just 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour and its available power reserve of just 38 hours, yet it features an in-line Swiss lever escapement and a flat silicon balance spring, which makes it more resistant to magnetic fields and also less sensitive to shocks.
Being just a trifle over 15 millimeters in diameter, the tiny movement is of an ideal size for a trinket, which is supposed to be as compact as practically possible.
The low diameter comes at a price, though. Although beating at a slow pace of just 21,600 vibrations per hour, the movement is only good for some 38 hours of continuous operation after being fully wound.
The Breguet Reine de Naples Charleston is one of the smallest models in the whole range. Its ovoid white gold body is only 33 millimeters long and less than 25 millimeters wide, which will make it look especially good on small, skinny wrists.
It is secured on the hand with a peculiarly shaped, Charleston-style bracelet, which is not simply attached to the ball-shaped connection element but also hugs the white-gold case with dreads-like chainlets.
As usual for the series, the off-centered dial of this gorgeous time measuring device is decorated with natural mother of pearl and twelve Roman numerals that are compressed and then stretched in order to wholly fill the gap between the chapter ring and the bezel flange, which is decorated with dozens of diamonds.
Speaking about diamonds, I feel obliged to inform you that there are plenty of them. In fact, Breguet says that the Charleston’s bezel, dial flange, and the ball attachment are decorated with as many as 139 diamonds of different shape and cut totaling at approximately 1.32 carats! And if that wasn’t enough, the setting crown, which is conveniently placed at 4 hours, is decorated with a pear-shaped briolette diamond, too, impressive in size.
See also: Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 in Rose Gold (Ref. 8918BR/58/864 D00D)
WWR Verdict
Originality 5/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Usability: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Breguet
Breguet Reine de Naples Charleston Automatic (Ref. 8928BB/51/J60 DD0D) specification
Price: $72,000 (MSRP, ref. 8928bb/51/j60.dd0d)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber 586, 15.22 mm, in-line Swiss lever escapement and flat silicon balance -spring, adjusted in 5 positions, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 29
Movement frequency: 21,600 vph
Power reserve: 38 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes
Case: White gold
Shape: Ovoid
Dimensions: 33.00 mm x 24.95 mm
Case height: 8.60 mm
Dial: Mother of pearl, individual serial number at 12 hours
Numerals: Roman
Hour markers: Black
Hands: Blued steel, Breguet-type open-tipped
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: 18-karat white or yellow gold Charleston bracelet
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Back: Sapphire
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Bought my first mechanical watch in 1986 and it took me ten more years to realize that I have a problem: at some point in time watches became my passion. Well, it could be worse.