Claimed to be inspired by military-style watches that Glycine produced during World War II, this oversized KMU 48 (ref. 3905.99AT.LB90) model has been here for ages.
From time to time, the company refreshes the range with new versions, new finishes, and new materials, even including such high-tech ones as carbon fiber. Featuring the same oversized steel case with black PVD treatment, and a refreshed dial, this Glycine KMU 48 Black is the new big thing in all meanings of this word.
The first thing that captured my attention here is, of course, the “layer cake”, Panerai-style dial. It features an upper, matte-black layer with cut-outs for oversized Arabic numerals and dot-shaped hour markers, and a lower layer, which is painted with an unspecified luminous substance (possibly, some greenish Superluminova).
Besides looking cool and providing the watch with an extra feeling of depth, the layout is also legible and easy to read, even despite the relative thinness of the diamond-shaped hour and minute hands.
Although the hand-wound, pocket-watch movement Unitas 6497 is large (especially compared to modern calibers from ETA), at less than 37 millimeters in diameter it is still too small for a watch that measures the whole 48 millimeters. To make the dial look more proportional, the Swiss designers equipped it with an extra-long subsidiary seconds hand that is almost half as long as the hour hand.
I didn’t like the way they decorated the sub-dial when I first saw the watch. Yet, I must admit that it’s growing on me at the very moment I type this word. Given the enormous size of that thing, it is only just that it sports a contrast, negative-style color scheme, challenging the main display, and throwing the gauntlet right into its face.
With a height of around 10 millimeters, the KMU 48 looks slim, however, it still remains VERY large: I saw a number of wrist shots of its siblings hugging some skinny wrists and in many cases, the owner of this thing looked not impressive. So, as usual, if you want to own this model (and it indeed looks terrific), don’t be lazy to visit your local dealer or a watch boutique and try this beast on your hand.
If it fits, don’t hesitate to get one, since, limited to only 250 pieces, the KMU 48 Black will soon become a rare item.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 5/5
Value for Money: 3.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Glycine Watches
Glycine KMU 48 Black 3905.99AT.LB90 specification
Price: $2000 (Retail)
Movement: Hand-wound, caliber Unitas 6497, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 17
Movement frequency: 21,600 vph
Power reserve: 41 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Case: Stainless steel, black PVD
Size: 48.00 mm
Hour markers: Luminous
Hands: Steel, luminous
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Black leather strap with grey stitching