The new F.P.Journe Chronometre Optimum is powered by a unique hand-wound caliber. Crafted from 18-karat rose gold and painstakingly decorated, the movement sports a double-barrel design with a patented high-performance bi-axial escapement and even a natural dead beat second indicator (although you won’t see it most of the time since it is visible only through the transparent case back, but that’s apparently the main idea behind the design: some things should be intimate, you know.)
Designed, manufactured and assembled in-house, the FP Journe 1510 hand-wound caliber is built to predictably strict specifications and is hidden inside a compact -at least, by today’s standards- platinum body that is currently available in two sizes: a 40 millimeters in diameter for those who prefer their watch to be as discreet as practically possible and 42 mm for those who would like to get some extra attention to their persona. Both models are just 10.10 millimeters thick, which make them particularly convenient when worn with formal attire.
As usual, F.P.Journe offers an understated, discreet design with lots of curving lines and surfaces that don’t scream, but, instead, quietly whispers quality and pedigree. Although the brand was founded less than 15 years ago, it can teach a lesson or two even the most established players that trace their roots back to the 18th century and beyond.
Even though this is a collectible item that won’t often come out of a high-security safe, the watch was offered highly ergonomic, natural design that will probably make it comfortable to wear and to check the time when needed.
The dial sports a familiar design with the main hours and minutes sub-dial placed closer to 3 o’clock and the smaller subsidiary seconds display placed at 9 hours. Like their stunning Octa UTC Automatic from the last year, the watch also features an easily readable power reserve indicator, as well as round cutout at 11 o’clock that offers you a glimpse at the titanium remontoire: a constant-force device that significantly increases isochronism of the movement.
I can’t say anything about the timekeeper’s price*, but it is clear that the Chronometre Optimum will be expensive and its production will most certainly be limited to just a handful of individually numbered pieces.
See also: Patek Philippe Triple Complication 5208P
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
* UPDATE ON PRICING: The Chronometre Optimum will be offered at a fairly impressive MSRP of $92,400.
F.P.Journe Chronometre Optimum specification
Price: $92,400 (MSRP)
Movement: Caliber FP Journe 1510, in-house, made of 18-karat rose gold, Brevet EP2487546A1 high-performance bi-axial escapement, constant-force remontoire (patent EP 1 528 443 A1), power reserve indicator (EP 1 760 544 A1,) Swiss Made
Winding: Hand-wound, 27 turns of crown
Dimensions: 34.00 x 3.75 mm
Number of jewels: 44
Frequency: 21,600 vph
Power reserve: 70 hours
Decoration: Geneva stripes
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve
Case: Platinum, 950pt
Size: 40.00 mm / 42.00 mm
Case height: 10.10 mm
Dial: Gold and silver
Hour markers: Black
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Black leather strap on platinum pin buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective