Like the, um, sporty Ralph Lauren Sporting Chronograph Ceramic watch that the American fashion house has presented back in October 2012, the new Ralph Lauren Sporting World Tim (refs. RLR0210700 & RLR0210000)e automatic timekeeper comes in a noticeably oversized body, but has the sexy black ceramic swapped for a less expensive, but still very imposing, satin-brushed stainless steel. The list of functions, as the name of the piece clearly states, has also been edited in favor of a nicely done GMT display.
The Ralph Lauren Sporting World Time is equipped with a Swiss made RL939 movement that was designed, built and tested by the fashion brand’s long standing partner Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Also known as the JLC Caliber 939A (among others, the movement powers the absolutely gorgeous Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic in Rose Gold (Ref. Q1422421) that was introduced last year at SIHH 2011 show,) the mechanism is a fairly new addition to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of “complication” movements (it came to fill the void left by the deprecated cal. 929 that the Swiss-based watchmaking House stopped making in early 2000s) so there is still not enough information regarding its long-term reliability. Still, knowing JLC’s indisputable reputation of a go-to maker of high-grade calibers, I have an impression the mechanism will as solid in the long run as the one it replaced.
Quite predictably, the movement is elegantly (but very modestly) decorated with Cotes de Geneve motif on the oscillating weight and bridges and some perlage (aka circular graining) on the baseplate.
Although the tri-compax dial of the watch looks slightly unbalanced thanks to the oversized semi-circular power reserve indicator, which is placed between 9 and 10 hours, I must admit that it still very ergonomic and easy to read, partly thanks to the chosen white and cobalt color scheme, as well as to a nice combination of bold Roman numerals and flat Breguet-styled hour and minute hands.
The small GMT sub-dial at 6 hours sports a small circular aperture with a yin-yang-style disk behind it that turns slowly and indicates whether it is day or night in the chosen time zone.
The time zone display, by the way, is also very easy to use. Like in many recent worldtimers, there is a city disk, which is partly visible in the lower part of the dial. Operating it with a smaller crown, which is (rather inconveniently) placed at 10 o’clock, you can easily set the second time zone without the need to refer to Wikipedia or some other external source of information.
Photos: Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren Sporting World Time specification
Price: $10,600 (MSRP as listed on their web-site, ref. RLR0210700 on leather strap) / $10,900 (MSRP, ref. RLR0210000 on steel bracelet)
Movement: Automatic, RL939 (manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre), Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 34
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 40 hours
Movement decoration: Cotes de Geneve, circular graining
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, GMT, world time
Case material: Stainless steel
Case size: 45.00 mm
Case height: 11.50 mm
Dial: Dark blue
Hour markers: Shiny White finish
Hands: Steel, shiny white
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Dark cobalt blue alligator leather with a brushed steel pin buckle (ref. RLR0210700) / Brushed stainless-steel bracelet with three-part fold-over clasp and twin security buttons (ref. RLR0210000)
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire