First revealed a year ago with a sexy jet-black onyx dial, the updated Jaquet Droz Eclipse has been reissued in an even dressier version with its face finished with ivory Grand Feu enamel (which is not only pleasant to look at, but is also very difficult to manufacture on an industrial scale). Although the beige-colored plate of the J012613200 doesn’t do a particularly good job mimicking a night sky, it still makes the watch a perfect choice for those looking for a dressy moon-phase timekeeper.
Looking at the official specification of the Jaquet Droz The Eclipse Ivory Enamel (Ref. J012613200), I can assume that there are only two things that make the updated watch different from the 2012 model: the choice of materials and the size of its elegantly shaped body.
While it is still powered by the same Jaquet Droz 6553L2 self-winding caliber (although not as spectacular as jobs created by Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre, it is still quite complex and is also beautifully decorated completely justifying the use of sapphire crystal on its display back), it now comes in a lot more expensive 18-carat red gold body with the same precious metal used to craft the three hands, as well as the eight stars and a classic-looking moon disk (the latter doesn’t look as happy as its predecessor, by the way).
The watch has also become considerably smaller shrinking from generous 43 mm to more elegant (and also more, um, wearable with formal attire) 39 millimeters in diameter. Together with approximate height of 12.7 millimeters, the watch looks a tad bulky. Regretfully, the Swiss watchmaker didn’t manage to make the watch slimmer, but, even with this dimensions, the watch is comfortable to have on a normal wrist even if you plan to wear it with a tight-cuffed shirt.
Soon going on sale around the world, the watch will probably retail for around $25,000 USD*.
*UPDATE ON PRICE: The watch will in fact be offered with an even more impressive price tag of $27,500. Considering the material its case is crafted from, as well as the quality and sophistication of the in-house mechanism that powers this beautiful ref. J012613200, I would say the MSRP is actually not that high although I can’t call it ‘affordable’ either. On my one to five “value for money” scale, I would probably put it between four and five.
Photos: Jaquet Droz
Jaquet Droz The Eclipse Ivory Enamel (Ref. J012613200) specification
Price: $27,500 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber JD6553L2, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 28
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 68 hours
Movement decoration: 22-carat white gold oscillating weight, Geneva strips on bridges
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, full calendar, moonphase
Case, Bezel and Crown material: Red gold
Case size: 39.00 mm
Case height: 12.70 mm
Dial: Grand Feu enamel, Ivory-colored
Hour markers: Black
Hands: Red gold
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Handmade rolled-edge black alligator leather strap on 18-carat red gold pin buckle
Back: Sapphire, engraved