Offered as a very first ladies watch in Raymond Weil’s product range to sport a real complication, the new Raymond Weil Lady Maestro Moonphase (Ref. 2739 LS3 05909) is not only more complex but is also a lot more elegant than previous iterations of the collection.
As you can see, the new watch follows all the family traits of the Maestro series. It is equipped with slightly exaggerated Breguet hands and sports 11 italicized Arabic numerals that, too, look like they were influenced by the legendary watchmaking house. Their deep blue color looks contrast on a white mother-of-pearl background of the dial and is just a shade or two lighter than the moon-phase disk.
The familiar sunray guilloche pattern in the center gives the timekeeper’s watch a jovial, almost playful appearance, visually balances the 31 small numerals that comprise the traditional circular calendar, and also perfectly mirrors the 68 small diamonds that decorate the gadget’s polished steel bezel.
Raymond Weil says that the watch is powered by a Sellita-based Caliber RW4520 automatic movement. While most watchmakers of this caliber usually limit their personalization efforts to adding a branded rotor, this movement was actually modified to accept a pair of push-pieces for fast data and moon disk correction.
Like those on their current Maestro Phase de Lune gents watch, the pushers on the Raymond Weil Lady Maestro Moonphase are set flush with the mirror-polished surface of the 36 mm case. The parts not only look inconspicuous, but they are also actually more comfortable to use than the ordinary buttons that often require a toothpick or, God forbid, a pen to operate the calendar.
For a watch that is powered by a mass-produced self-winding movement, the new Lady Maestro Moonphase looks extremely thin. Well, maybe not as ultra-thin as some timekeepers manufactured by more established brands, but is actually on par with such expensive trinkets as, for example, the cushion-shaped 2012 Zenith Star Moonphase or the upcoming Blancpain Quantieme Retrograde collection.
The mirror-polished body also looks well-proportioned, although it could have been made even more visually slender if the manufacturer has decided to decorate the body’s sides with, say, a thin line cut right under the bezel. It would not only make the aforementioned bezel better stand out but would also create a fine optical illusion of lightness. Well, on the other hand, this purely a matter of personal tastes and I am sure that there will be thousands of buyers who would be happy with the gadget just precisely the way it is now.
What I like about this watch the most is that it shows how far (and how fast) the Swiss brand evolved. While their older models often looked a bit crude, their latest offerings are more elegant and refined than models that stay at least a couple of steps higher on the watchmaking food pyramid. I am not sure how much money Raymond Weil will ask for this timepiece, but it is worth more than a passing glance.
See also: Blancpain Quantieme Retrograde
Photos: Raymond Weil
Build quality: 5/5
Value for money: 4.5/5
Raymond Weil Lady Maestro Moonphase 2739 LS3 05909 specification
Price: $4600 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber RW4520 (Sellita-based), Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 26
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 38 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon-phase
Case and Crown: Stainless steel
Bezel: Set with 68 diamonds
Size: 36.00 mm
Case height: 11.00 mm
Dial: White mother-of-pearl
Hands: Breguet-type, blue
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Blue alligator leather strap with steel folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective