Being an official partner of the annual 1000 Miglia race, the Swiss watchmaker introduces new limited edition collections on an annual basis. This time, the company introduced a pair of nice Chopard Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph GMTs with one of them (namely, the Ref. 168550-6001 reviewed here) featuring an impressive combination of black DLC body with a rose gold bezel.
Of course, this is not a new completely new model. Chopard has been re-introducing this model for years offering it with the same tri-compax dial layout and an easily discernible GMT hand that tells time pointing at the bezel with its 24-hour scale.
However, this year the company decided to change the movement that powers it. While the last year’s version was powered by ETA Valgranges A07.171 automatic caliber, this one is animated by a different engine. The company traditionally doesn’t reveal what kind of ebauche it uses for its models, but, judging by its technical specs (25 jewels, 28,800 vph, 46 hours power reserve and, of course, GMT complication) it is possibly the good old ETA Valjoux 7754 work-horse.
Still offered in a COSC-certified chronometer version, it is one of the most reliable and accurate mechanical calibers that you can get for reasonable money. It is also well-known to servicemen around the civilized world, so you probably won’t have problems with proper servicing and maintenance.
According to Chopard, the 2013 Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph GMT Limited Edition (Ref. 168550-6001) is issued in a medium-sized body only slightly larger than 42 millimeters in diameter and just over 13 millimeters high. Of course, the lugs are traditionally long, so it would be a good idea to try it on your wrist before hitting the button, but otherwise I don’t see any issues regarding its size and proportions (well, it would be pretty surprising if Chopard screwed anything up in the design department, but these days you just never know).
As usual, the dial is easily readable. Even the chronograph, which is here mostly for ensuring a sporty look, is easy to read, as well as to operate with the pair of push-pieces that are placed at 2 and 4 hours. The small seconds indicator, which is located at 9 o’clock, is also deliciously contrasted with its white hand circling glossy black surface of the sub-dial with its sunburst pattern.
Created together with the Italian tuning specialist and coach-builder Zagato (the company that made its name by making ultra-expensive monsters like Ferrari even more exclusive in the literal meaning of the word), the watch inevitably bears lots of tiny Z’s on its black dial that together give it that sexy “carbon fiber” look, as well as on the solid case back cover that also sports the usual road sign-style “1000 Miglia” logo.
It’s just too bad that the Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph GMT is limited to only 500 pieces. It will be pretty difficult to nail your own piece if you don’t already have enough cash on hand: the watch is going to be offered with an impressive price tag of $9900 and I don’t think that there will be great discounts available.
Build quality: 5/5
Value for money: 4/5
Chopard Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph (Ref. 168550-6001) specification
Price: $9900 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, caliber ETA Valjoux 7754, COSC-certified chronometer, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 25
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 46 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone (GMT, on the bezel), chronograph
Case: Stainless steel, black DLC (scratch-resistant)
Bezel: 18-karat Rose gold
Size: 42.50 mm
Case height: 13.50 mm
Hour markers: Luminous
Hands: Luminous, rose gold
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Black calfskin Barenia leather strap on stainless steel folding clasp buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Back: Solid, DLC steel, Mille Miglia logo