Eberhard & Co.’s new take on the hand-wound 8 Jours collection offers impressive 8 days of power reserve. Although preserving the same basic dial layout with seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, the 8 Jours Grande Taille grew slightly bigger to match today’s standards and now sports a more modern appearance with more prominent lugs and a cleaner design.
30 m
de GRISOGONO Fuso Quadrato
The new de GRISOGONO Fuso Quadrato combines the Swiss jeweler’s trademark square body with a pair of superimposed dials: one showing time in your current place of stay and the other, hidden when not needed by an amazing diaphragm mechanism, indicates current time in some other city. From where we at worldwatchreview.com stand, so far this is one of the most interesting takes on an idea of a GMT watch that was presented during the last decade.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Officier Ref. 5153J in yellow gold
The 2009 Patek Philippe Calatrava Officier Ref. 5153J was officially introduced in March 2009 during the annual Baselworld 2009 international trade show. Presented in a yellow gold case, the 5153J features the usual sober dial layout and is equipped with an elegant “hunter” back cover. Previously, a mandatory feature of a “trench watch,” the engraved cover makes this new collection a nice (although quite expensive for a simple three-hander) present for a West Point graduate.
Chopard L.U.C Lunar Big Date chronometer
Chopard was founded back in 1860 as an independent Manufacture. Now, the brand works under the umbrella of the Fleurier Quality Foundation (a joint project of Chopard, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Bovet Fleurier) and has access to the most advanced machinery and manufacturing processes. In 2009, it has presented the gorgeous L.U.C Lunar Big Date automatic chronometer with a brilliantly executed moon-phase display.
Patek Philippe 10 Day Tourbillon 5101R in rose gold
The 2009 Patek Philippe 10 Day Tourbillon 5101R comes in the same art-deco-inspiring body as their 2003 10 Day model, but now offers a lot more appealing grey-and-silver dial with polished rose gold Arabic numerals and sand-blasted surface. The new version not only looks gorgeous, but also offers such a degree of, um, pedigree, which is rare even at this, extremely high, price.
Chronoswiss Tachoscope Audi Centennial edition
Audi, a German luxury brand, which right now is busy celebrating the 100th anniversary of the marque, has recently partnered with the German watchmaker Chronoswiss to present a co-branded version of the last year’s Tachoscope regulator-style chronograph. Just like the most recent generation of Audis (except, perhaps, for the gorgeous R8) the restyled watch looks, well, just like another overpriced German chronograph: an artifact that oozes perceived quality, but is otherwise absolutely nondescript.
Breitling Navitimer 125th Anniversary Chronograph
The 2009 Breitling Navitimer 125th Anniversary successfully mixes the brand’s signature bold styling with the legendary slide-rule bezel in a surprisingly compact 43 mm stainless steel case. Although I find some of its design elements puzzling to say the least (I am talking mostly about the “unique” Air Racer bracelet that, to my eyes, looks here like a set of polished 22-inch light alloy rims on a 1946 Cadillac Series 62 coupe: they do the job, but make an awkward impression), with the bracelet replaced for something more adequate the gadget will be a crown jewel in any collection of pilot’s watches.
Oris Rectangular Bob Dylan Limited Edition
Revealed at the end of January 2009, this limited-edition Oris Rectangular Bob Dylan (ref. 01 733 7618 4084-Set) is not an all-new model but is simply a slightly refreshed version of the Oris Rectangular Date collection introduced in 2008. However, with its 37.80 mm x 39.00 mm rectangular case, the timepiece is considerably larger and, for some reason, is powered by a different movement.
Bulgari Sotirio 125th Anniversary Edition in rose gold
Established back in 1884, the Italian fashion house celebrates its anniversary with a rose gold version of its Bvlgari Sotirio 125th Anniversary Edition. With its symmetrical art-deco dial and so called “hunter” case back cover that is becoming more and more popular for the last couple of years, the timepiece produces a very strong impression. In fact, it looks like the most Italian (if not “Roman”) among recently introduced “Swiss Made” devices.
Daniel Roth Papillon Chronograph Revealed
Celebrating the 5th anniversary of their landmark Papillon chronograph, which in its own turn itself celebrated the 10th anniversary of the brand, Daniel Roth has recently revealed the new take on their famous and much-adored timepiece. Presenting it in a fresh blue-and-silver color scheme, the brand has also equipped the device with a new movement. The mechanism is made by one of the most revered manufacturers in the country, which is famous for its high-precision mechanisms. Featuring the same Ellipsocurvex case and a pair of patented lozenge-shaped pivoting-head retrograde minute hands, the new Papillon Chronograph (ref. 319.Z.60.394.CM.BD) now sports a mechanical self-winding Frederic Piguet column-wheel chronograph caliber.
DeWitt Academia Night Chronograph: Radiating Luminous Splendor
DeWitt delivers the stately Academia Night Chronograph (Ref. AC.6005.53.M255) in a massive 18-karat rose gold body of three different varieties that are inspired by long-gone days of the Golden Age that preceded the Great Depression of the 1930s. The collection’s main point of attraction is the unusual gear-shaped bezel that is matched by similarly styled sides of the massive case. Although to some the device may look a bit too extreme, it will find its share of customers even despite its obscenely high MSRP.
Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph (ref. 103094)
In 2008, Montblanc has introduced yet another TimeWalker. Delivered in nicely styled stainless steel with black ceramic elements decorating its body and comfortable-looking bracelet, the chronograph makes a good impression although its sticker price may scare a lot of potential customers away to more traditional models with better-advertised brand names printed on their dials.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control 1833 Ultra Thin
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control 1833 Ultra Thin has a good chance of biting a healthy chunk of flesh off a market of deceptively simple while extremely elegant luxury timepieces, which is currently dominated by Patek Philippe’s Calatrava family. With its remarkably clean design, which is both pleasant to look at and easy to read, the new dress watch has a good chance of becoming as desirable and highly sought after as the legendary Reverso line.