Just like the PAM 338 that, too, was presented during this year’s SIHH 2010 show, the hand-wound Panerai Radiomir 8 Days (PAM 346) combines titanium alloy of its mildly oversized case with 18-karat rose gold of its three hands in something that some may feel like an ugly mix of difficult to match metals.
Okay, that’s the last one for today. Also featuring a moon-phase complication the 2010 Maurice Lacroix Pontos Decentrique Phases de Lune (ref. PT6218-TT031-330) speaks a completely different design language with a strong German accent. Just like the other models in the Decentrique collection, the watch sports an off-centered main dial moved in the north-west direction. Still, what is particularly interesting about this one is the time display interface.
Previously sold only in an impressively oversized stainless steel case more than 45 millimeters in diameter and over 11 millimeters thick, the 2010 Ebel Classic Hexagon Retrograde Power Reserve is finally available in a lot more expensive 18-karat rose gold body of the same dimensions. From where I sit, the move seems risky given the relatively low market strength of Ebel as a brand (I wonder how many wealthy customers will be ready to part with more than €15,000 to get one of these,) but something tells me that the decision-makers at the Swiss watchmaking brand probably have a dissenting opinion on this matter.
De Bethune first blipped on the radar only seven years ago in 2002. The brand has already acquired enough R&D potential not only to make their mechanisms solely in-house but also to make them sophisticated and high-tech to achieve the level of accuracy that most watchmakers can only dream of.
Breguet, a watchmaking brand that was established in Paris, France back in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself and is now a part of The Swatch Group, has released a rose gold version of its Marine Royale 5847 collection that features a mechanical alarm system. Soon to come to a boutique near you, the new timekeeper costs almost €30,000 and makes a strange, yet painfully powerful first impression.
If you have a body (or at least wrists) of heroic proportions and are not willing to pay thousands of dollars for ridiculously overpriced timepieces like, say, IWC Doppel-Chronograph Top Gun, then you may want to check out the vintage-styled Archimede Pilot XL , which is both ruggedly-classy and, priced well below the €500 mark, surprisingly affordable.
First unveiled at the Baselworld 2009 and going on sale at the beginning of October of the same year, the Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mach 4 (ref. 241381) featured a “love it or hate it, we don’t care” layout of its huge dial, but had at least one advantage over competitors that you just could’t deny: it was powered by an almost legendary Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement known for its impressive power reserve, the decent ability for keeping good time, as well as that old-school charisma that more modern mechanisms simply don’t have.
Inspired by the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, the Baume & Mercier Riviera Magnum XXL (ref. 8835 aka MOA08835) is a relatively affordable piece of gadgetry for those not willing to spend a fortune on the real thing (or, as I think I need to add after meditating a minute or two on the subject sometime after this brief review was already published, it is not fair to use such a degrading combination of words as “a real thing” implying that this one is just a shameless ripoff: I think of it as more of an “homage” to the famous ROO, which is one of the best forms of flattery if you want my opinion.)
Staying true to the original Maxi Marine Diver series design, the 2008 Maxi Marine Diver Titanium chronometer 265-90-3/92 features the usual rose gold unidirectional rotating bezel with black rubber inlays, a Cyclops’ eye above the small round date window, and basically the same dial layout. That’s good news. The bad news is after the jump.
The IWC Big Ingenieur Chronograph was first presented at the annual SIHH-2009 show that was held in Geneva, Switzerland. Although as cold and impartial as a man can be, I must confess however that this gorgeous timekeeper currently tops my list of IWC’s Most Wanted Watches being second only to the recently revealed Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month time-measuring device.
Featuring a cluttered dial and an oversized body, the Victorinox Swiss Army AirBoss Mach 6 Power Gauge doesn’t look like a practical choice. However, the exaggerated busyness of the exterior and the nice finish of its mechanical movement makes this “aviator” a nice fashion accessory for those who always dreamed about accomplishing a tour of duty on a real aircraft carrier.
Here comes the big one. With its 45mm Speed Command Chronograph (ref. 5785F-11D03-63), Blancpain has introduced its sportiest model so far. Although the exterior defies the recent trend of making rugged-looking devices (inspired by real tools, they often come with lots of angles, lots of machine-brushed surfaces and feature deliberately rudimentary, even crude look to their components), the new Speed Command makes a strong impression thanks to its glossy black sapphire bezel and scratch-resistant body of the same color.
The recently unveiled SUB 5000T Seaconqueror has been officially promoted to the flagship status. Featuring all the usual design traits from DOXA, the device is offered in a deliberately aggressive-looking design with lots of protruding parts that may make you hurt somebody if not used with care.