At a first glance, the 2013 hand-wound Arnold & Son DBS (Ref. 1DSAP.W01A.C120P) looks like it was inspired by the ultra-expensive Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre family. It is, in fact, a tribute to a pair of much older timekeepers made by John-Roger Arnold between 1796 and 1799 respectively. Both watches were able to display mean solar and sidereal time on two separate sub-dials and featured an ingenuous bimetallic thermo-compensated Z balance.
Claimed to be inspired by military-style watches that Glycine produced during World War II, this oversized KMU 48 (ref. 3905.99AT.LB90) model has been here for ages. From time to time, the company refreshes the range with new versions, new finishes, and new materials, even including such high-tech ones as carbon fiber. Featuring the same oversized steel case with black PVD treatment, and a refreshed dial, this Glycine KMU 48 Black is the new big thing in all meanings of this word.
First unveiled back in 2009, the gorgeous “digital” Zeitwerk has already survived a number of limited editions. Now, the German brand reintroduces the timekeeper as A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst (Ref. 140.048) adding to the mix a new dial that successfully combines rhodium-plated white gold and their signature “German silver” alloy: the centuries-old mixture of copper, nickel and zinc that allows you to make a greyish-white metal that is easy to work with and, when finished properly, looks great, too.
Although different alloys of silver are popular among jewelers all over the world, serious watchmakers aren’t especially fond of the metal. However, Bell & Ross has fairly recently updated its vintage-styled WW1 collection with the new Bell & Ross WW1 Argentium model. As the name implies, the watch is crafted using their proprietary “argentium” alloy of silver and some other, unspecified metals.
Compared to the yesterday’s vintage-styled Zenith Pilot Big Date Special Edition (Ref. 03.2410.4010/21.C722) automatic timekeeper, this new limited edition Archimede Pilot OR2 may not look as intense and it definitely plays in a different league when it comes to hardware that makes it tick, however, it is also about nine times less expensive and, equipped with a NOS movement from a German ebauche maker, is certainly more exclusive.
The new Hublot Classic Fusion Squelette Tourbillon Ferrari 250 GTO limited edition watch was presented last week on Tuesday at Abbaye de Hautvillers. The “ultra-exclusive” event was restricted to hundred-and-something rich persons that you have probably seen on TV and all sorts of tabloids. Planned to be sold exclusively to 39 owners of the legendary Ferrari 250 GTO vintage sports cars, the new timepiece has a good chance of becoming an instant legend.
Known for its iconic “Swiss railway clock” design that the watchmaker has licensed from Swiss Federal Railway (SBB) company around 26 years ago, the group has recently started selling yet another version of the legendary watch. Powered by a cheap, but dependable hand-wound movement, the new Mondaine Vintage is offered in a compact and slim stainless steel body and offers you all that you can expect from the brand: a simple and clear, easy to read design.
The 2012 hand-wound Zeno Basel Vintage Classic Chrono (Ref. 4100-i4) pilot’s watch features all the usual stuff that you expect from a Valjoux 77xx-powered device. There is a chronograph, a rudimentary calendar, and an almost inevitable moonphase complication. Basically, everything that a gentleman needs in a vintage-style “aviator.” Presented in a slightly oversized stainless steel body, the 4100-i4 is powered by a rare(-ish) version of the hand-wound caliber and features a somewhat eclectic, but pleasant to look at, dial. It was first unveiled during Baselworld 2012 show.
The young Swiss watchmaking brand Blacksand Geneve has been around for only two years, but it has already managed not only to create an easily recognizable identity for its timepieces but also to build its own production facility that allows it to churn out Manufacture-grade in-house movements. Among the first models that will receive the new CAL 2002 hand-wound caliber is the new Blacksand Stratographe chronograph. Featuring a so-called “monopusher” design, the wristwatch uses just a single push-piece in its crown to operate all chronograph functions from “start” to “stop” to the inevitable “reset.”
The hand-wound Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Pequenos Segundos 130° Aniversario (ref. 3130.9N) is based on the Pequenos Segundos range that was first presented in 2010 and then slightly revisited in 2011 with a pair of new dials. Besides sporting a longer name, the new version s also powered by a different movement and sports a more reserved dial layout, which makes it the most beautiful CyS timekeeper that I have ever seen.