Vacheron Constantin just never fails to deliver one masterpiece after another. The 2013 Patrimony Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater (Ref. 30110/000R-9793) is not only a perfect dress watch for the extremely wealthy watch lovers. It also sports a wonderful hand-wound caliber that is claimed to be the thinnest minute repeater mechanism in the industry.
The new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Minute Repeater is a thoroughly executed tribute to the early XIX century Perrin Freres pocket watch that the Swiss brand recently restored for the Edouard and Maurice Sandoz Foundation (EMSF.) As you will see on the picture below, the pocket watch in question could be just another 200-year-old artifact, if not its peculiar face.
The Swiss brand, which is mostly known for their flashy, yet affordable mechanical and quartz timepieces, has recently started selling the new self-winding Edox Cape Horn 5 Minute Repeater Skeleton (ref. 87003 3 AID).
With its built-in minute repeater, monopusher chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar the automatic Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208P lacks only a tourbillon escapement to become a real flagship of the enormous fleet of ultra-luxury watches that one of the oldest Swiss watchmaking brands currently has on offer.
For the last SIHH 2010 show, Roger Dubuis has presented a great number of, well, ultra-luxury products even including a model with a relatively rare “double tourbillon” design (and that one looked spectacular, I’d give them that.) However, it was the splendid Excalibur Tourbillon Minute repeater that offered a nice combination of classic complications inside wrapped into a “post art-deco” exterior that looked the most interesting offering for this year.
A couple of weeks ago, Vacheron Constantin has revealed its new Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 (ref. 88172/000P-9495) model featuring a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater, a tourbillon and, omg, an equation of time complication. While the first three of these “grand complications” are more or less common and you can get one from almost any serious brand, the fourth is still rare even among high-end watchmakers and, while not serving any practical purpose, at least makes the device stand out among the precious few competing products in this price range.
Coming in the footsteps of the 2005 Tour de l’Ile model sporting the same three complications, the 2010 Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755” (refs. 80172/000P-9505 with slate opaline dial & 80172/000P-9589 in silvered opaline) is the most advanced model in the revered Swiss brand’s current product range. If the complexity and thousands of hours of skilled labor invested into the making of the hand-wound caliber are not enough to impress you, I think this will: the watch will bear a price tag that will make your Rolls-Royce Phantom look like a fairly average executive sedan.
The 2010 Portuguese Grand Complication (Ref. IW3774) is a huge jewel in the crown of the collection presented by IWC at the SIHH 2010. Even if you don’t care about the sheer complexity of the mechanism that animates this beautiful piece, its styling alone must make your heart skip a beat if you have a heart at all!
For the model year of 2010, IWC has refreshed its last year’s Portuguese Minute Repeater timepiece. Just like the original model, it is available both in red gold (Ref. IW544907) and in platinum (Ref. IW544906.)
The Corum’s new Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45 50th Anniversary edition (ref. 010.101.55/0001 AO12) successfully packs an in-house hand-wound caliber with a tourbillon escapement and a minute repeater complications. All these complications are packed in a mildly oversized 45-millimeter 18-karat red gold case without making it look like a mirror-polished Big Mac on your wrist. Predictably expensive, this ultra-luxury timekeeper nicely blends daringly sporty exterior with a set of complications that normally come with a lot more, um, traditional-looking timekeepers from the Top 3 of the Swiss watchmaking industry.