A lighthouse is an unexpected choice of inspiration for a watch, even for a diving companion, yet, here we are celebrating an old beacon built 181 years ago in Spain with a timepiece that marks the 20th anniversary of the All Dial line inspired by an ancient stadium in Italy. Strange or not, prepare to fall in love with the Mido Ocean Star 20th Anniversary.
For this new self-winding Skydiver Date 80126-3VIN-GDN, Edox used an undisclosed manufacturing process that gave the watch an interesting “Aged Steel” (this is literally how they call it) look. Even though the caliber inside the Skydiver is simple and, well, nonspecific, the vintage-styled watch still deserves some attention.
Designed as an ultra-limited model for the members of the CronotempVs club, the Ball Engineer III 00RED edition rethinks the traditional “tool watch” from the American brand and turns it into something a lot more modern (and arguably more desirable.) My only problem with the 00RED is that Ball Watches doesn’t plan to make more of them.
This specimen is a controversial one. The Deep Blue Rally Diver 1000 Automatic (regrettably, the “1000” here stands for feet, not meters of water resistance) comes in a sort of nonspecific Submariner-style case, while the choice of the caliber doesn’t look the best (putting it mildly). The thing that saves it is the vibrant (almost jovial in some combinations) dial.
Always wanted a vintage Fifty Fathoms, but didn’t have a platinum credit card? There are dozens of micro-brands that get you covered, but you should probably wait until MK II restarts the production of its Stingray Keroman collection.
A mechanical chronograph has long ceased to be a “tool of choice” for an astronaut: there are specialized electronic devices for that that are just better. The 2022 Fortis Official Cosmonauts Chrono AMADEE-20 Edition acknowledges the fact with a brief nod and instead delivers what a modern customer really wants: megatons of style and charisma at an *ahem* relatively affordable price of $3900 and some change.
With this 2021 Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT, the Swiss brand finally adds a nice square-shaped, multiple time-zones “aviator” to their extensive product range.
Well, not “finally” because this new limited edition is just another iteration of the last year’s Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green. The correct title would sound like “That’s Why This New Breitling Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition Chronograph is One More Chance to Get Yourself a Bentley Watch You Can Wear,” yet it would be too long (and too clickbaity,) so, please, forgive me this attempt at sensationalism.
First announced in January 2019 days before SIHH 2019 show, the limited-edition Oris Dive Control Chronograph (ref. 01 774 7727 7784-Set) offers a blend of great caliber, interesting exterior, and an overall flamboyant attitude of a heavy-weight boxing champion delivered in a single -albeit slightly overpriced- package.
On January 15th, 2019, at the SIHH 2019, IWC has officially presented the Bronze Pilot 36mm Special Edition: a beautiful homage to a timekeeper that was introduced over 70 years ago and was worn by the British Royal Air Force pilots for many years to come. Featuring a deliciously compact and surprisingly -for a watch powered by a self-winding caliber- slim case machined from a bronze alloy, it looks stunning new and has a great potential to age graciously together with its owner.
Designed for a person who thought that Ulysse Nardin’s earlier Diver Chronometer 44 was too pricey, too big, and too cluttered for a diver (or, perhaps, for a person who is happy with the watch and wanted to augment their collection with a simpler version,) the 2018 Diver 42 automatic three-hander offers a beautiful, clean exterior, superior build quality, and a mechanism that, alas, is a bit too simple for the price that the brand asks for this thing.
The 2018 Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer (I review here the model with reference number C01-43AWT2-S00W0-CC with a “Camel” leather strap, but there are two more versions available with “Tan” and “Blue” leather bands,) is the young watchmaking brand’s latest attempt to conquer the niche of dressy ‘UTC’ watches. This time, it offers a better-calculated combination of good quality, great exterior, and a nice automatic movement equipped with a complication manufactured exclusively for Chr. Ward by its long-standing Swiss-based partner.
In a matter of days, the Japanese conglomerate Seiko will start selling the hybrid-powered Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition (Ref. SBGE245G). With the luxury gadget being limited to the Japanese domestic market, it will be a bit difficult to come by if you happen to live on the other side of the globe. Yet, the device is so beautiful, so impressive that it will be absolutely worth going into all the trouble to get one.
Earlier this year, Steinhart has issued their new take on the concept of a “vintage-modern pilot”. Successfully blending vintage exterior with a classic caliber and modern CNC machinery, the 2018 Nav.B-Chrono 47 Baumuster B Grey Edition (ref. 106-0877) offers, perhaps, the best “value for money” ratio for those interested in buying a relatively affordable brand new “aviator”.
Created in collaboration with MR PORTER, one of their major partners that sells all things luxury, the 2018 Breitling Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 is limited to just 1000 pieces. The limited edition packs a great in-house chronograph caliber, and, as real estate agents like to say, is priced to sell in a market over-saturated with equally elegant pilot’s watches produced by well-established brands like Omega and IWC.