A lighthouse is an unexpected choice of inspiration for a watch, even for a diving companion, yet, here we are celebrating an old beacon built 181 years ago in Spain with a timepiece that marks the 20th anniversary of the All Dial line inspired by an ancient stadium in Italy. Strange or not, prepare to fall in love with the Mido Ocean Star 20th Anniversary.
Swiss Brands
Aged Steel: This Limited-Edition Edox Skydiver Looks 300 Years Old
For this new self-winding Skydiver Date 80126-3VIN-GDN, Edox used an undisclosed manufacturing process that gave the watch an interesting “Aged Steel” (this is literally how they call it) look. Even though the caliber inside the Skydiver is simple and, well, nonspecific, the vintage-styled watch still deserves some attention.
Power of Zeroes: the 2022 Ball Watch Engineer III 00RED
Designed as an ultra-limited model for the members of the CronotempVs club, the Ball Engineer III 00RED edition rethinks the traditional “tool watch” from the American brand and turns it into something a lot more modern (and arguably more desirable.) My only problem with the 00RED is that Ball Watches doesn’t plan to make more of them.
Deep Blue Rally Diver 1000 Automatic with Ronda cal. R150
This specimen is a controversial one. The Deep Blue Rally Diver 1000 Automatic (regrettably, the “1000” here stands for feet, not meters of water resistance) comes in a sort of nonspecific Submariner-style case, while the choice of the caliber doesn’t look the best (putting it mildly). The thing that saves it is the vibrant (almost jovial in some combinations) dial.
A Fifty Fathoms for the Rest of Us: the MK II Stingray Keroman
Always wanted a vintage Fifty Fathoms, but didn’t have a platinum credit card? There are dozens of micro-brands that get you covered, but you should probably wait until MK II restarts the production of its Stingray Keroman collection.
Fortis Official Cosmonauts Chrono AMADEE-20 Edition
A mechanical chronograph has long ceased to be a “tool of choice” for an astronaut: there are specialized electronic devices for that that are just better. The 2022 Fortis Official Cosmonauts Chrono AMADEE-20 Edition acknowledges the fact with a brief nod and instead delivers what a modern customer really wants: megatons of style and charisma at an *ahem* relatively affordable price of $3900 and some change.
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT 100M (ref. BR0393-BL-ST/SCA)
With this 2021 Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT, the Swiss brand finally adds a nice square-shaped, multiple time-zones “aviator” to their extensive product range.
Breitling Premier Bentley Centenary LE: Finally, a Bentley Watch You Can Wear
Well, not “finally” because this new limited edition is just another iteration of the last year’s Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green. The correct title would sound like “That’s Why This New Breitling Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition Chronograph is One More Chance to Get Yourself a Bentley Watch You Can Wear,” yet it would be too long (and too clickbaity,) so, please, forgive me this attempt at sensationalism.
Larger than Life: Oris ProDiver Dive Control Chronograph (01 774 7727 7784-Set)
First announced in January 2019 days before SIHH 2019 show, the limited-edition Oris Dive Control Chronograph (ref. 01 774 7727 7784-Set) offers a blend of great caliber, interesting exterior, and an overall flamboyant attitude of a heavy-weight boxing champion delivered in a single -albeit slightly overpriced- package.
Homage to Mark XI: IWC Bronze Pilot 36mm Special Edition Automatic
On January 15th, 2019, at the SIHH 2019, IWC has officially presented the Bronze Pilot 36mm Special Edition: a beautiful homage to a timekeeper that was introduced over 70 years ago and was worn by the British Royal Air Force pilots for many years to come. Featuring a deliciously compact and surprisingly -for a watch powered by a self-winding caliber- slim case machined from a bronze alloy, it looks stunning new and has a great potential to age graciously together with its owner.
Ulysse Nardin Diver 42 Automatic Three-Hander
Designed for a person who thought that Ulysse Nardin’s earlier Diver Chronometer 44 was too pricey, too big, and too cluttered for a diver (or, perhaps, for a person who is happy with the watch and wanted to augment their collection with a simpler version,) the 2018 Diver 42 automatic three-hander offers a beautiful, clean exterior, superior build quality, and a mechanism that, alas, is a bit too simple for the price that the brand asks for this thing.
Steinhart Nav.B-Chrono 47 Baumuster B Grey Edition 06-0877
Earlier this year, Steinhart has issued their new take on the concept of a “vintage-modern pilot”. Successfully blending vintage exterior with a classic caliber and modern CNC machinery, the 2018 Nav.B-Chrono 47 Baumuster B Grey Edition (ref. 106-0877) offers, perhaps, the best “value for money” ratio for those interested in buying a relatively affordable brand new “aviator”.
Breitling Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 in Collaboration with MR PORTER
Created in collaboration with MR PORTER, one of their major partners that sells all things luxury, the 2018 Breitling Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 is limited to just 1000 pieces. The limited edition packs a great in-house chronograph caliber, and, as real estate agents like to say, is priced to sell in a market over-saturated with equally elegant pilot’s watches produced by well-established brands like Omega and IWC.
Historic Re-Issue: DOXA Sub 300 “Black Lung” Edition
In 2017, Doxa has released several “anniversary” timekeepers that celebrate the brand’s first semicentennial in the business of making professional diving tools. While the blackfaced Sharkhunter and the silver-faced Searambler attracted their fair share of attention from collectors and, um, more normal enthusiasts alike, it was the Sub 300 “Black Lung” Limited-Edition automatic diver that broke the brand’s own sales record with the whole bunch being pre-ordered during the first 24 hours after registration officially commenced.
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Automatic (ref. H82305931)
With this gorgeous Khaki Navy Scuba Automatic H82305931, Hamilton not simply expands its line of diving companions. It finally offers a model that is not just “different” from the rest of the crowd, but -unlike their last year’s Navy Frogman- can be worn by a casual person without attracting weird glances from persons who “just don’t get it.”