With its new Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph (Ref. 49542-52-151-BK6A) the Swiss watchmaker updates the iconic chronograph model with a larger body and a slightly restyled dial and also equips it with a new version of their Caliber GP 3300 workhorse ‘tractor’ movement.
Wearing the traditional black-and-red colors of the Swiss-based bike maker BMC, the new Louis Erard La Sportive Edition Limitee BMC automatic chronograph sports all the usual features that are offered by the cal. ETA Valjoux 7750-powered timekeepers and even somehow manages to look original (especially when compared to the monotonous flow of 7750-based chronos that we meet on a daily basis) and even desirable.
Well, it has finally happened. RW’s Freelancer line has, at last, received a trendy chronograph model that comes in a matt black stainless steel body that was subjected to PVD treatment. While retaining the basic dimensions and preserving the dial layout of its sister models, the new Raymond Weil Freelancer Urban Black (Ref. 7730 BK 05207) looks different from the rest of the gang thanks to its moody, even military-style appearance.
For its first appearance at the Baselworld 2012 trade show, the young German watchmaker has presented a number of timekeepers that belong to their elegant Intemporal collection. Each model has its own good points, but the Lehmann-Schramberg Intemporal Zeigerdatum (Pointer Date) offers the most balanced (i.e. it is not over-expensive and is not over-sophisticated) combination of features and remarkable exterior.
On the heels of the recent Heritage Black Bay 200M Automatic Diver (Ref. 79220R) the Swiss watchmaker has also presented an even more extreme model that is claimed to be inspired by their “classic” pieces. Although not a reissue in the true meaning of the word, this new Tudor Pelagos Diver Titanium 500M (ref. 25500TN) is strongly influenced by the 1968 Tudor Snowflake Ref. 7021. Not being a tool watch any longer, the premium-priced 25500TN is a lot more refined than its predecessor.
The Chronoswiss Kairos Chronograph (ref. C7541-KR) sports all the goodies you can expect from the brand that deals only in highly exclusive, daringly-luxury timekeepers. There is a heavily-, yet meticulously guilloched solid silver dial, Breguet-type blued hands that look like they were heat-treated, and, of course, the traditional onion-shaped setting crown that is here to operate a high-quality Swiss-made automatic movement.
Graham’s watches are rarely straightforward, but this 2012 Graham Chronofighter 1695 Hotsy Totsy (Ref. 2CXAP.S03A) provokes the most acute attack of cognitive dissonance. I mean, could you expect a classic, vintage-style dress watch to be equipped with a huge, M1 Garand-style trigger made from 18-karat rose gold?
Glycine has finally updated its military-styled ‘Combat’ collection with a new version. Featuring a black PVD-treated case with rose gold PVD elements, the timekeeper is -sort of pretentiously- named Glycine Combat Golden Eye (Ref. 3863.399 C6-TBA9). Well, I hope that next year they will offer the same model with the bezel and crown crafted from bronze. Although not as flashy (if you can apply the adjective to such a noble alloy with its aura of adventure and glory,) on certain markets it’s going to be smashing.
The military-themed Victorinox Swiss Army Night Vision (ref. 241569) is basically an update of the well-known model that has been here for years. Powered by the same quartz movement, the 2012 model comes in a more attractive, vintage-style stainless steel case that looks more suitable for a “tactical” timekeeper.
Corum has finally added a chronograph model to its Legend 42 line of compact sporty watches. Called Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Chrono, the new chronograph is equipped with an ETA-based COSC-certified chronometer movement and, as you have probably already guessed, comes in a mid-sized body that measures only 42 millimeters in diameter.
The new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 (Ref. 27.03.0138.940) is equipped with a new self-winding chronograph caliber that was specifically re-engineered in order to move its “heart,” the balance wheel that beats at 10 vibrations per second, to a less usual position between 10 and 11 o’clock.
The new Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Patrol (refs. H76556331, H76556131, and H76566751) looks like an evolution of the stealthy Khaki X-Mach Pilot that was presented almost exactly three years ago in February, 2009. The difference between the two? Well, preserving all the controls and being powered by virtually the same movement, the new version now lets you convert nautical miles into statute miles and back. And the watch has also become smaller.
With its F.P. Journe Octa Sport, the Swiss brand doubles the number of sporty, full-aluminum models that it has in its LineSport collection. The all-aluminum craze was started last year when F.P. Journe introduced its bizarre Centigraphe Sport chronograph.
It came to our attention that Bell & Ross will soon start selling a new version of their BR03 model. Presented in the same stainless steel body, the 2012 BR03-90 Grande Date & Reserve de Marche now sports the well-known Soprod 9090 chronometer movement.
The quartz-powered Roamer Vanguard is strongly influenced (to put it mildly) by the legendary Jules Audemars Extra-Thin collection by Audemars Piguet. Although featuring the same style and looking great in general, in small details the watch, to my deepest regret, clearly shows that it is at least ten times cheaper than the gorgeous piece of technical marvel that it pays homage to.