Revealed at the beginning of the year, the 2010 Jaquet Droz SW Chronograph (ref. J029530409) is one of the most attractive models in JD’s current collection of sporty timekeepers. Featuring the laconic bi-compax layout, an easily readable big date indicator, and a pair of partially open-worked hour and minute hands with nice yellow-orange Superluminova on them, this elegant timekeeper is an ultimate “tool” for the few survivors of the nuclear Holocaust.
Like the last year’s Grande Seconde SW ROUGE, the 2010 SW Chrono was presented in a massive rugged-looking case with a signature fluted bezel.
Being whole 45 mm in diameter, the SW Chronograph is definitely on the larger side.
I must warn you that people with thin wrists, who risk buying this stuff online, may want to try it first, since it may be just too huge for some of them.
While the aforementioned Grande Seconde model was equipped with a black cast rubber bezel, this version comes with a more traditional and certainly less aggressive stainless steel version.
The setting crown and the chronograph push-pieces are still made of this elastic material, though, which is good.
The matt black dial of this ref. J029530409 perfectly matches the black rubber elements and the grossly oversized hour indexes at 3 and 9 o’clock provide good visual support for the trademark “claws,” one of which also serves as an awkward-looking crown guard.
As you can see, there is also a big date window at 12 o’clock that looks very organic here. And the skeletonized hour and minute hands with orange-yellow Superluminova on them provide a pair of much-needed color spots.
The watch is powered by a Jaquet Droz caliber 6885-S automatic column-wheel chronograph movement. Equipped with a 22-karat white gold oscillating weight, this is a refinished version of the well-known Frederic Piguet FP 1185 blank movement. Although initially designed to compete with the Lemania 2310 chronograph caliber, the FP 1185 has never gained enough traction to become a truly mass-produced mechanism, but, for what it’s worth, it’s actually for the better: now the dreaded Swatch Group has a virtually unlimited reserve of high-quality blanc calibers that are used by their high-end brands as a base for their movements. Yes, they are archaic with their slow frequency of just 21,600 vph and an underwhelming power reserve of 40 hours, but they are also extremely cool in their old-school kind of way.
Very interesting piece, this one. Even if you can’t afford this SW Chronograph (ref. J029530409), you should pay a visit to your local boutique to see one in its gorgeous flesh.
See also: Jaquet Droz L’Origine Email
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4.5/5
Value for Money: 3.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Jaquet Droz
Jaquet Droz SW Chronograph (ref. J029530409) specification
Price: $16,800 (MSRP)
Movement: Caliber JD 6885-S, base Frederic Piguet 1185, automatic, Swiss Made
Cadence of balance: 21,600 vph
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, big date, column-wheel chronograph
Power reserve: 40 hours
Case: Stainless steel
Size: 45 mm
Case height: 14.00 mm
Hands: Polished steel, open-worked, luminous (orange Superluminova)
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Black rubber band with push-button folding clasp in steel
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective