One of my most favored Swiss watchmakers is prepping a number of new timepieces for the upcoming SIHH 2011 even. The new IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days Caliber 59210 (Ref. 5101) watch is among them. Playing on the crowded field of -ahem- “affordable” luxury dress watches, IWC Portofino has always been somewhat of an ugly duck in the family of beautiful swans. Now, however, the model is updated and seems to be moved a tad upmarket.
The new IWC Portofino Hand-Wound 8 Days will be the most expensive model in the line-up, which will also include a Portofino Automatic (Ref. 3565,) Portofino Chronograph (Ref. 3910,) and Portofino Dual Time (Ref. 3610) GMT watch.
Having successfully absorbed the core DNA of the recently refreshed IWC Portuguese family, the new model features a similar dial layout, is powered by an in-house Caliber 59210 manual-wind movement, and will soon be available both in stainless steel and in rose gold.
The movement in question belongs to the Cal. 50000 family of engines and, being almost 38 millimeters in diameter, is rather large.
Sporting a set of massive bridges and plates, the movement will possibly be especially sturdy and robust compared to calibers built with gentler, thinner, less rigid parts.
Of course, the pocket watch-sized manual-wind mechanical movement has enough room for an oversized mainspring barrel which is capable of powering the watch for up to 192 hours.
That is more than enough even if you plan to wear the timepiece only on weekends.
If you, like me, belong to the neurotic part of the population that checks the fuel gauge every three minutes even if the tank is still three quarters full, then a beautifully executed power reserve indicator located between 8 and 9 o’clock may come extremely handy to you.
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, solid gold hour indexes, as well as the small seconds indicator at 6 o’clock, also look extremely elegant.
The Roman numeral at 12 o’clock may raise some eyebrows, but, all in all, this generation of the IWC Portofino family has a good chance of becoming one of the most popular since the line was introduced in 1984.
If the price is right, that is*.
Build quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 2/5
Value for money: 3.5/5
Overall Rating: 4/5
*UPDATE ON PRICE: It’s been finally revealed that the watch will go on sale at around $10,000 (depending on taxes and custom duties in your part of the world) for versions in stainless steel. Versions in a lot more imposing rose gold will be almost twice as expensive starting at $19,000 at the time of launch. Although the purpose of this reviews is in no way to try to influence your decision, I would say that this recent batch of Portofino timepieces looks really interesting. This new collection is probably one of the most appealing dress watches on the market that also happen to be priced just about right if you take into account its gorgeous styling and refined mechanism that animates them.
IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days Caliber 59210 (Ref. 5101) manual-wind watch specification
Price: $10,000 (MSRP, version in stainless steel refs. IW510103 & IW510102) / $19,000 (MSRP, version in 18-carat rose gold, refs. IW510104 & IW510107)
Movement: Manual (hand-wound,) IWC Caliber 59210, 37.80 mm in diameter, in-house, Swiss Made
Functions: Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, power reserve indicator, date
Power reserve: 192 hours (8 days)
Case material: 18-carat rose gold or Stainless steel
Bezel material: 18-carat rose gold or Stainless steel
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 42.00 mm
Lug width: No data
Case height: 12.00 mm
Dial: Silver plated or Black (Stainless steel version) or Slate (Rose gold version)
Hands: Gold, polished
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Leather by shoemaker Santoni
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire