Carl F. Bucherer knows a thing or two about how to reach a woman`s heart. Designed for a modern and emancipated lady, the luxury Patravi EvoTec BigDate (ref. 00.10628.03.77.11) offers not only lots of gold and precious stones but also adds to the grand total an in-house automatic movement: something that you don’t see that often in this niche where most brands prefer inexpensive quartz engines to true masterpieces of engineering!
Judging by the looks of it, the new timekeeper belongs to the same collection as their current Patravi EvoTec BigDate Ref. 00.10628.08.87.11 model with the inconspicuous stainless steel of the less expensive model exchanged for a more noble material: 18-karat rose gold.
The watch comes in the same barrel-shaped case that, even by today’s standards, looks a bit too large measuring 38.54 by 39.25 millimeters. While the integrated lugs are still relatively short, many potential customers may still find the device too massive for their fine wrists. Also, not everyone may like the long setting/winding crown: even though the shape of the part makes it easy to operate the watch, the way the crown is protruding may make it not comfortable in some situations.
Exterior styling is, too, the same with the EvoTec’s large dial featuring a natural white mother-of-pearl insert surrounded with five diamonds on the bead-blasted (or, more probably, sand-blasted) chapter ring crafted from some silver-toned metal.
The same precious stones (56 of them, to be more precise) of the same cut occupy the relatively thick bezel making the watch look a trifle lighter and even playful.
The shape of the main dial is repeated in a smaller subsidiary seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The large date aperture at 11 o’clock also features a barrel-shaped design. Frankly, I am not very fond of the way the large date complication affects the overall feel of the dial: it definitely gives it a “heavier” appearance with its thick frame and the way the pair of wheels are stacked atop each other (it’s too bad they can’t create something similar to Glashutte Original’s gorgeous “Panorama Date” complication,) but, well, I am sure that thousands of customers will love how it looks.
Its CFB A1003 automatic movement with the brand’s signature peripheral winding rotor design is designed and made solely in-house. Although flat, the engine still holds enough energy to supply the Patravi EvoTec BigDate with power for as long as 55 hours.
What I love the most about this beautiful timepiece is its sea snake leather strap. I do not suffer from ophidiophobia, but it somehow makes me feel better that there is one snake less lurking in a sea.
See also: Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec Calendar
Photos: Carl F. Bucherer
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec BigDate (ref. 00.10628.03.77.11) specification
Price: $35,900 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber CFB A1003, 33 jewels, in-house, Swiss Made
Movement decoration: Decorated by hand
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, large date
Power reserve: 55 hours
Case: Rose gold
Bezel: Rose gold set with 56 TW VVS (1.1 carats) diamonds
Size: 38.54 mm x 39.25 mm
Dial: Silvered with white mother-of-pearl
Hands: Rose gold
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Sea snake leather strap with 18-karat rose gold folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, double antireflective