The limited-edition Dior Chiffre Rouge M01 (ref. CD084B10M001) combines a classic 1970s exterior design with a high-tech, contemporary Zenith movement: a Swiss-based brand, which is considered by many to be one of the most reputable and innovative watchmaker specialists there is.
Brief Introduction
Like the jewelry maker Chaumet, the French fashion brand Dior is a member of a larger conglomerate LVMH.
Well, not just like Chaumet, since the French fashion house is the main holding company of the group, owning more than 40 percent of shares and almost 60 percent of votes.
So, you understand that, when it comes to making watches, Dior has absolutely no problems in getting the best cases and the top grade movements.
They did (and still do) use standard-issue mechanical and quartz movements manufactured by ETA. However, it looks like they have just began the process of, um, strategic decoupling from their traditional supplier. There are several reasons for that. First, ETA is owned by The Swatch Group: a competing conglomerate that has recently started to limit the number of ETA movements that go to third-party manufacturers.
Changes Are Coming
Second, and most important, it looks like Dior gradually begins to understand that on today’s market it simply isn’t enough to just put a big-sounding name and a “Swiss Made” inscription on the dial and wait for a watch to sell like hot pancakes. A watch that costs more than a motorcycle has to offer something more than the brand name. There has to be something substantial.
Like a movement.
The Dior Inverse Caliber
This new Chiffre Rouge M01 has its caliber developed and manufactured by Zenith, also a member of LVMH.
In its press release, the French brand doesn’t go into any technical details as to the design of the movement. However, considering the source of the caliber, I am pretty sure that it is nothing to sneeze at.
The main selling point of the caliber is, of course, the oscillating weight. 99.9 percent of the automatic watches that you see in jewelry stores have standard calibers with their oscillating weights being only visible from the back. This one, however, has the part moved to the front for everyone to see.
We have already seen a similar approach from Perrelet that has introduced its Turbine collection in 2009. However, in the Turbine watches the front “turbine” is still just an extension attached to the main rotor that does the grunt work here and still stays at the back.
The the Dior Inverse’s design fully transfers the rotor to the front and looks more suitable for a “sporty” dress watch.
The Vintage-Modern Exterior
Looking simple and sort of “vintage” (Doesn’t that sunburst-finished white gold oscillating weight on the dial remind you of those old school Marantz amplifiers? And the asymmetric, biased towards the right stainless steel case with a guilloche crown also looks modern and, well, anti-Apple in its design.) the watch still possesses some modern details of its exterior.
Its black bezel with small micro-relief Arabic numerals on it is, for example, made of black, scratch-resistant ceramic. And the transparent case back protects the movement from dust and sweat with a translucent black sapphire crystal, which also a nice touch.
The Availability
According to Dior’s official press release, the French brand plans to issue the Chiffre Rouge M01 in a limited edition of only 200 numbered pieces.
The price is not yet announced, but the trinket sure won’t be cheap*.
* UPDATE ON PRICING:
Well, surprisingly enough, the watch is not that expensive after all. Dior asks not more than €6700 for this beautiful gadget. Considering the gorgeous mechanism that ticks at a speed of 36,600 vibrations per minute in its stainless steel case, I must admit that this limited edition piece is worth considering for a person looking for a fine watch from a fashion brand.
See also: Chaumet Dandy Edition Metronome
WWR’s Verdict
Originality 4.5/5
Versatility: 5/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 3.5/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Photos: Dior
Dior Chiffre Rouge M01 CD084B10M001 specification
Price: €6700 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Dior Inverse, made by Zenith, Swiss Made
Movement decoration: Inverse winding rotor
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 40 hours
Case and Crown: Stainless steel
Bezel: Ceramic
Shape: Round
Size: 39.00 mm
Dial: Black, lacquered
Numerals: Arabic
Hands: Luminous
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Black perforated calfskin strap, steel brushed ardillon buckle OR Stainless steel brushed with unfolding buckle
Crystal: Sapphire
Back: Sapphire, black, translucent