On the heels of the recent Heritage Black Bay 200M Automatic Diver (Ref. 79220R) the Swiss watchmaker has also presented an even more extreme model that is claimed to be inspired by their “classic” pieces. Although not a reissue in the true meaning of the word, this new Tudor Pelagos Diver Titanium 500M (ref. 25500TN) is strongly influenced by the 1968 Tudor Snowflake Ref. 7021. Not being a tool watch any longer, the premium-priced 25500TN is a lot more refined than its predecessor.
When I compare pictures of the classic timekeeper and the new version, I only see minor differences between the two. Compared to the Snowflake, the new Tudor Pelagos has a more subtly notched bezel, as well as a more delicate crown with less prominent crown guards.
The square-box shaped hour markers are integrated into the bezel flange and the hands are a trifle wider. The famous magnifying lens over the date window has also gone, which is a pity. Oh, and, measuring in whole 42 millimeters in diameter, the new model, which is now crafted not from steel, but from lighter titanium alloy, is two millimeters wider than the original.
Also, this model features an impressive (also, superficial for an “office diver”) water resistance rating of 500 meters and even sports a helium release valve (at 9 hours) that saves the sapphire crystal from popping out during fast decompression.
Trying to differentiate Rolex and Tudor brands, the Swiss watchmaker has always adhered to “no in-house movements for the poor man’s watch” and this model is no exception here.
Powered by the well-known ETA 2824 automatic caliber, the new watch brings you the same 38 hours of power reserve and the same mix of robustness and reliability but adds a branded oscillating weight, which is decorated with Geneva stripes, as well as sports circular-grained plates and bridges. Frankly, I would probably prefer the mechanism to also be upgraded to something close to COSC standards: for the price, you can find a number of interesting timekeepers from more established brands that will probably also be better at holding their resale value. Seriously, Tudor, are we a joke to you?
Not sure how expensive this model will be*, but if it will be offered below $4500, it will surely be a hit among those who always wanted to get a real Snowflake, but were afraid to part with $4000-$5000 only to find themselves owning a counterfeited piece of junk.
*UPDATE ON PRICING: Tudor plans to offer this new model at MSRP of approximately $4000 depending on your local taxes, which makes it an interesting offer considering the value of the brand that stands behind this beautiful specimen.
Tudor Pelagos Diver Titanium 500M 25500TN specification
Price: $4000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, caliber ETA 2824, 26.00 mm x 4.60 mm, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 25
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 38 hours
Movement decoration: Branded rotor, circular graining, Geneva stripes
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Size: 42.00 mm
Numerals: Arabic (on the bezel)
Hour markers: Rectangular, luminous
Water resistance: 500 meters
Strap: Titanium bracelet or black rubber strap
Back: Solid, engraved