On the heels of the recent Tudor Heritage Black Bay 200M Automatic Diver (Ref. 79220R) the Swiss watchmaker has also presented another model that seems to be inspired by their “classic” pieces. Although clearly not a reissue in the true meaning of the word, this new Tudor Pelagos Diver Titanium 500M (ref. 25500TN) automatic diving watch appears to be strongly influenced by the 1968 Tudor Snowflake Ref. 7021 model, but, not being a tool watch any longer, looks more refined than its predecessor.
When I compare pictures of the classic timekeeper and the new version, I only see very minor differences between the two. Compared to the Snowflake, the new Tudor Pelagos has a more subtly notched bezel, as well as more delicate crown with less prominent crown guards.
The square-box shaped hour markers are integrated into the bezel flange and the hands seem to be a trifle wider. The famous magnifying lens over the date window has also gone, which is a pity.
Oh, and, measuring in whole 42 millimeters in diameter, the new model, which is now crafted not from steel, but from lighter titanium alloy, is two millimeters wider than the original.
Also, this model features a very impressive (although not really practical) water resistance rating of 500 meters and even sports a helium release valve (at 9 hours) that saves the sapphire crystal from popping out during fast decompression.
Trying to differentiate Rolex and Tudor brands, the Swiss watchmaker has always adhered to “no in-house movements for the poor man’s watch” and this model is no exception here.
Powered by the well-known ETA 2824 automatic ebauche, the new watch brings you the same 38 hours of power reserve and the same mix of robustness and reliability, but adds a branded oscillating weight, which is decorated with Geneva stripes, as well as sports circular-grained plates and bridges. Frankly, I would probably prefer the mechanism to also be upgraded to something close to COSC standards: for the price, you can find a number of quite interesting timekeepers from more established brands that will probably also be better at holding their resale value.
Not sure how expensive this model will be*, but if it will be offered below $4500, it will surely be a hit among those who always wanted to get a real Snowflake, but were afraid to part with $4000-$5000 only to find themselves owning a counterfeited piece of junk.
*UPDATE ON PRICING: Tudor plans to offer this new model at MSRP of approximately $4000 depending on your local taxes, which makes it a very interesting offer considering the value of brand that stands behind this beautiful specimen.
Tudor Pelagos Diver Titanium 500M Automatic watch (ref. 25500TN) specification
Price: $4000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, caliber ETA 2824, 26.00 mm x 4.60 mm, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 25
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 38 hours
Movement decoration: Branded rotor, circular graining, Geneva stripes
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case material: Titanium
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 42.00 mm
Case height: No data
Lug width: No data
Numerals: Arabic (on the bezel)
Hour markers: Rectangular, luminous
Water resistance: 500 meters
Strap: Titanium bracelet or black rubber strap
Case back: Solid