Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Onyx (Ref. J025030270) is a new addition to their Eclipse Onyx Moonphase line. Powered by a heavily modified double-barrel F. Piguet caliber 1151, it’s a great take on the old concept of a “regulator” watch.
Just like the Moonphase, the Grande Heure Onyx sports a mildly oversized stainless steel body. Measuring the same 43 millimeters in diameter and just shy of 13mm in thickness, the new member differs from the rest of the collection only with its relatively unusual dial layout.
Even the winding/setting crown with its peculiar, but, evidently, ergonomic shape is identical to that installed on the Eclipse.
Some may deem the timekeeper’s oversized case to be a bit too large for a wristwatch that is supposed to be worn with formal attire. However, I don’t see any serious problem here.
Jaquet Droz plays in the niche of “watches-as-art-objects”. They don’t try to compete with names like Patek Philippe or Jaeger-LeCoultre or their sister brand Blancpain. They do their own thing and their watches are actually supposed to draw extra attention to themselves and, by extension, to their owners.
The same goes for the dial. Yes, being a regulator that has its dial layout reduced to just a single hour hand rotating around a 24-hour chapter ring, it is not particularly easy to read. Even in good lighting, you will only get a general idea of what time it is at the moment. On the other hand, who cares?
Yes, you can’t use the timekeeper as a navigational instrument and it will be a bad choice as a pulsometer. Yet, after some getting used to it, you will be able to tell the current time with an accuracy of up to five minutes and it is enough for all things practical. After all, it isn’t a daily beater: people don’t wear jewelry objects like that in an office.
When it comes to the movement, it is actually brilliant.
The watch sports a self-winding Jaquet Droz caliber 24JD53 that was developed exclusively for the brand by the Swatch Group’s in-house watchmaker Frederic Piguet.
Based on the F.P. caliber 1151, this 24JD53 sports a heavy metal (I think, it’s fashioned from tungsten) oscillating weight, and features a fairly rare double-barrel energy storage system.
Fully winded, both barrels have enough juice in them to provide the watch with 68 hours of guaranteed power reserve. This is usually enough to safely leave the watch in a drawer (or, preferably, in a safe) for a couple of days and find it still ticking and telling the right time.
The Astrale Grande Heure Onyx will go on sale later this year bearing a sticker price of $11,000 USD.
Although it’s on the more expensive side for a piece crafted from mere stainless steel, the gorgeous, meticulously finished caliber, as well as the timekeeper’s unique exterior styling make the MSRP a lot less frightening. Also, one should assume that there will be some discounts that will go into effect as soon as the watch hits jewelry stores across the world.
Photos: Jaquet Droz
Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Onyx J025030270 specification
Price: $11,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Jaquet Droz caliber 24JD53, double-barrel, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 28
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 68 hours
Functions: Hours (24-hour display)
Case: Stainless steel
Shape: Round
Size: 43.00 mm
Dial: Black Onyx
Numerals: Arabic
Hour markers: Steel, rhodium-plated
Hands: Steel, rhodium-plated
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Rolled edge hand-made black alligator leather strap with stainless steel ardillon buckle
Crystal: Sapphire
Back: Engraved