Swiss
Already having in its collection a watch that combines a flyback chronograph with a perpetual calendar in a relatively compact, elegant body, the Swiss watchmaking house has recently decided to re-introduce the limited edition model in two new versions. Available soon both in stainless steel and rose gold, the new Carl F. Bucherer Manero ChronoPerpetual automatic chronograph wristwatch will be offered in two limited lots of 150 and 100 (ref. 00.10906.03.33.01 in 18-carat rose gold, pictured below) numbered pieces respectively. It will be quite pricey, too, but that’s to be expected from a watch of such unique pedigree.
Comparing specs of this new pair of wristwatches to the last year’s ChronoPerpetual Stallion Edition that was introduced in a rather surprising collaboration between CFB and the US-based brand Stallion specializing in premium boots and leather goods, I can only say that they are almost completely identical to the original with the differences limited to combinations of colors (the 2011 limited edition model featured the same colors for the main dial and sub-dials, while this new pair, as you can see on the pictures below, features Zenith-like bi-color schemes) and the choice of materials.
The Manero ChronoPerpetual is offered in a slightly oversized body that measures 42.5 millimeters in diameter and just over 14 millimeters in height. Despite the relatively compact dimensions of the body, the watch looks decisively massive, mainly thanks to satin-finished surfaces of the body, as well as its thick bezel, also brushed.
Like many high-complication watches, the timekeeper’s dial offers tons of information, but I can’t honestly say that it looks like mess: there are ten hands and seven sub-dials on this beast, but reading time is really not a problem and, as long you get used to it, you can always easy read both the perpetual calendar and the chronograph.
Of course, the version in rose gold provides the most readable dial thanks to its black (or a very dark grey) background and rose gold hands that looks quite contrast there. Thin strips of lume on the hour and minute hands, as well as on the hour markers, make both watches easily readable in darkness.
As before, the ChronoPerpetual is powered by the same CFB 1904 automatic movement that features more than adequate 50 hours of power reserve.
As for the prices, both versions are certainly not cheap. Even the model in stainless steel will retail for €22,800 (around $17,400) and the watch in rose gold will set you back for whole €34,500 ($26,350) if you will ever dare to order one.
See also: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5204)
Photos: Carl F. Bucherer
Carl F. Bucherer Manero ChronoPerpetual specification
Price: €22,800 (MSRP, stainless steel) / €34,500 (MSRP, 18-carat rose gold, ref. 00.10906.03.33.01)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber CFB 1904, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 49
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 50 hours
Movement decoration: Decorated by hand
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, month, day of week, moonphase, leap year, flyback chronograph
Case material: Stainless steel / Rose gold
Shape: Round
Size: 42.50 mm
Case height: 14.30 mm
Dial: Black / Silver-toned
Numerals: Arabic
Hour markers: Applied, with luminous dots
Hands: Steel / Rose gold (both luminous)
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Black leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel or 18-carat rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Back: Sapphire