The 2010 Tissot Luxury Chronometer Powermatic 80 watch sports a more refined version of the new ETA CO7.111 self-winding caliber.
Tissot Powermatic 80: First Impressions
Although I am not truly fond of the pattern, which is embossed on the sides of the compact stainless steel body, it still shows that this is not your usual Tissot. (*whispering*: psst, I think their older models often looked cheap and uninspiring.)
They designed the Luxury Collection to look expensive and refined or, at least, not as banal as most of the Tissot-branded timekeepers of the past.
The Movement: An Upgraded ETA CO7.111
They chose the new ETA CO7.111 as a base for their new creation. Based on the well-known cal. ETA 2824-2, it features lots of upgrades including a more durable synthetic escapement for longer service intervals and overall lifespan.
A slightly cheaper version of the same base movement also happens to power a slightly more affordable Certina DS Powermatic 80 that we have already reviewed last week as well as the 2022 Mido Ocean Star 20th Anniversary.
Still, this particular iteration of the movement is not only better decorated but is also more precise, since it is built with more carefully selected parts and is better adjusted.
Yes, although Tissot is not the first brand that comes to mind when it comes to ‘real’ chronometers, this version of the Powermatic 80 is indeed officially certified as such by the Swiss chronometer authority COSC.
Looking as a result of the natural evolution of the good ole ETA 2824, the movement is slower than its ancestor: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) vs 4hz (28,800 vibrations per hour.) However, it also sports a number of enhancements that seriously increase its energy efficiency delivering about 80 hours of power reserve. This is almost twice than the average 40 hours of the 2824.
Compared to the version that powers the aforementioned Certina watch, this version also sports a lot more elaborated decor not only on its stainless steel oscillating weight but also on the bridges.
Its synthetic sapphire crystal that protects the dial from dust and other fine particles is treated with some antireflective coating (on both sides!) and the usual mineral glass on the back is, too, replaced with scratch-resistant sapphire!
Of course, I may be wrong, but it looks like Tissot finally decided to move upmarket, closer to its sister brand Longines.
Still, the Swiss watchmaker didn’t manage to effectively hide some of the, um, “ignoble” elements of its DNA.
While most dress watches from brands like Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantine are usually equipped with thin (or even ultra-thin) calibers, the Powermatic 80 is bulky. And the watch itself, even despite being larger in diameter than an average expensive three-hander, looks a bit too thick to feel comfortable if you prefer shirts with tight cuffs.
On the other hand, it is also about ten times cheaper than a Patek and I feel like I would be willing to accept the trade-off.
Warning: guys with thinner wrists may find the watch just too big (at least, for a dressy timepiece). So, as usual, try before you buy.
As for the price, the MSRP of $1075 is a bit on the more expensive side of the fence, but, well, for a dressy timekeeper with a robust and reliable caliber this is more or less acceptable I think.
See also: Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary
Photos: Tissot
Tissot Luxury Powermatic Chronometer (ref. T086.408.16.051.00) specification
Price: $1075 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Powermatic 80 (ETA CO7.111), COSC-certified chronometer, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 23
Movement frequency: 21,600 vph
Power reserve: 80 hours
Movement decoration: Waves pattern on the oscillating weight and bridges
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: Stainless steel
Shape: Round
Size: 41.00 mm
Lug width: 22.00 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, anti-reflective on both sides
Back: Sapphire
Dial: Black
Hour markers: Applied
Hands: Baton-shaped
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Black leather strap